Storage of hardware - ideas needed please. (possible duplicate)

Apr 03, 2004 35 Replies

Yahbut, it's tricky trying to tell the difference between

7/8" screws and 1" screws so eventually everything has to be labeled. I also figure that given time a clear plastic container will scratch and cloud to the point of being opaque anyway so why not start that way?

Pin nailed. Bisquicking would have been nice but I was looking at making shop furniture and I wanted to be done now instead of later.

The shop was/has been/will be always made from found materials/recycles or something inexpensive. The storage units are all material left over from jobs that was dumpster destined. My tailed tools are all in base cabinets recycled from my home office from "the old house". The future home for them will be something more custom but using inexpensive material like MDF for the carcasses and maple for the tool trays. The maple being left over from a past project and saved from the dumpster destination.

UA100

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:02:32 GMT, "Greg Millen" brought forth from the murky depths:

Didja ever wax 'em? Works like a charm. I used paraffin early on and now use Johnson's whenever they feel sticky.

They really need to be inside a cabinet. I'm thinking that a large pass-through shelf right under the middle of my assembly table might be the ideal place for hardware. It would somewhat sheltered from dust under that top, and it would be there at the assy table when I needed some. Accuride makes the 2002 pass-through glides with a center detent for up to 24" either way so I could get hardware from either side. A short skirt of cloth could help keep dust out when it was closed, too.

¿Si, como no? (Jewelcome in Spanish.)

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 01:18:58 GMT, "Mark Jerde" brought forth from the murky depths:

True. And if you buy hardware at the Borg, get the 100 pc box. It costs the same as about 25 single pieces and you end up with quite a few pre-labeled spares.

Ya, ya, I hear you. But do you know a material that starts out opaque but turns clear when it gets scratched and ages? I did say the beef was a bit of a stretch; I'll be trying to find some containers next week I think, time depending.

cheers,

Greg

I use a carryall style of unit that holds about twenty, one pound coffee cans. this is an old carpenter's solution to carrying and storing nails.

If I get sufficiently motivated, I'll post a pix on ABPW.

(time passes)

OK, I know that I cannot describe in words the beauty of these things

- thus, I have put up a pix on ABPW.

Enjoy.

Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website:

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Honestly, it depends on your space and what you're trying to store. I've got a combination of plastic bins and drawers for all of my screw/bolt/nail/etc hardware and it works just fine. Each bin or drawer is clearly labeled with what's in it. You should go get yourself an inexpensive labeler (you can get a hand-help Dymo for under $20) and make it easy on yourself.

That's a good idea. I know that the local freebie buy-and-sell magazine always has someone selling used card catalogs at a good price, maybe that's something to look into if you have a large wall space you're not using.

On Sat, 03 Apr 2004 12:51:49 GMT, "Greg Millen" queried:

Most of my hardware is stored in an old IKEA bookcase we happened to have around. Seven shelves ( I had to add a few) plus the top.

Wood screws are usually bought in boxes of 100 and are kept in them. One shelf for flat head screws, another for pan head.

Nails, drywall screws and nuts & bolts (3/16" and up) are kept in coffee cans, which require periodic blowing out. Nuts and different types of bolts of the same size and thread (and the washers) are kept together in the same coffee can. Lag bolts of different diameters each have their own coffee can. They are at the top of the cabinet. Each size/type of nail and drywall screw also has its own coffee can. One shelf for drywall screws & nails & other misc. stuff, one for common nails and one for finishing nails. One can also for dowelling stuff.

Small nuts and bolts go in a smaller version of the Crappy tire drawer parts cabinet someone else posted. Again sorted by size and thread for the more common ones (#6, #8, & #10). Stainless & brass bolts kept separate, as are the metric threaded ones. I also have 5 covered plastic bins for different types of hardware: e.g. one for hooks, another for eyes, one for wall anchors, etc.

Labelling by hand using some old tractor feed labels I happen to have.

Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

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snip! Is there some software that is good for doing labels? What other considerations

"Avery" mail labels often come with software on a CD or you can download it from their site. Makes the text fit perfectly and does a nice job. Just me $.02 worth

Ed

On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 15:34:10 GMT, "Ed G" scribbled:

I use those when I have a bunch of similar labels to do, like for canning. I also use them for address labels. Actually, I think I might have used them when first setting up the system. But now, when I add a coffee can, it's easier to just write out the label by hand.

Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

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A few months ago I discovered Ziplock food-storage boxes. They come in various sizes, but the ones I use are sized to hold a sandwich. This works out to be just about the right size to hold a pound of nails or screws.

These things are readily available at the grocery store, cheap (about $2 for a pack of five IIRC) light weight, stackable, with covers that seal tight. You can mark them with a magic marker. I have a bunch of them and I just stack them on the shelves in a cabinet in the shop. I have a bunch of extras lying around so I can just grab another any time I need a new "category" of things to store.

-- jc Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection. If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

John Carlson wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

If you were to use the tougher zippered bags, you may be able to saw slits into thin wood (maybe diagonally from the front edge) so the bags can hang, all visible-like. I'll have to try that for myself

A while back, there was a either a tip or short article on how to make a shelving unit to hold those containers. The shelf had slots that mated with the top lips of the containers, using teh containers as drawers.

Barry

Interesting. I'll have to take a look. For vary small stuff I use

35mm film cans, but the problem is that it's not hard (at least for mr) to lose the whole can. I can see where a handful of very small ziplock bags packed >If you go to your local craft shop (Jo Anns locally) you can find

-- jc Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection. If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

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