I hope this post doesn't post twice. I tried to post it, but my machine rebooted
and so I am going to try to post this again.
I have been building some furnature and am in need of some stainable wood filler.
Does anyone have any ideas how I can get or make stainable wood filler.
I have bought the Elmer's stainable, but it doesn't.
I have tried other brands and they don't seem to work either.
Can any one tell me how to mix glue (what type) and sawdust to make a good
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I've had good results from a wood filler they sell at Home Depot. I don't
remember the brand, but it comes in a short yellow tube. It does a fairly
decent job of soaking up the stain close to what oak does. I've used it on
a cabinet and a bookcase.
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
I've seen and used lots of stainable wood filler including various
sawdust & glue mixes, but unfortunately I've yet to see one that will
take a stain to the same degree as the wood it is used on. Best thing
is to find a filler that matches as close as possible the stained
color of the wood. Next best is to fill, stain and perhaps apply 1st
coat of finish, then if necessary, use an artist brush to tint the
filled areas to match the surrounding wood. Doesn't really matter what
you use to do the tinting as long as subsequent finishing won't lift
an artist brush to tint the filled area to match
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - email@example.com
You can mix sawdust (and/or small chips and/or sanding dust) with
anything that will act as a binder. That includes epoxy, white glue,
yellow glue, hide glue, cyanoacrylate, shellac, lacquer and varnish.
The color of the repair depends on what binder was used...the more it
"wets" the wood the darker it will be. For example, white glue (when
dry) changes the wood color very little. OTOH, epoxy and CA make it
Regardless of the binder, they won't likely stain well because the
wood particles are sealed. Sometimes, sanding the area exposes enough
to take some stain but I've never seen any that would match the
unfilled wood because the filled areas lack structure, grain and the
normal change in wood color. To really match, you need to apply
what's missing with an artist's brush and colors. However, judicious
selection of the binder can help by selecting one so the repaired area
winds up grossly close to the stain color.
A lot depends upon how large and where the filled area is. If I have
a small area or some place where there is a slight gap in part of a
joint I often apply a bit of white glue and spit, wipe it flat and
then sand the area so that sanding dust mixes with it. That works
pretty well for me but I don't use stain. On dark wood like walnut I
use CA rather than white glue.
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