I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
"Stainable" wood fillers are really tough to make work right. The
stainm is always a different color in the filler. I only use them on
projects where I care very little about the look. They best practice is
to fill the holes with colored filler just before you apply the last
coat of finish. This way you can select a color that matches best at
each location you have a hole. You may want various colors depending on
the variable color of the wood.
Sometimes fillers have a tendency to repel the finish so do you first
few coats, then fill the holes carefully, the apply that last coat. Of
course this requires that you pretty much use your fingers as opposed
to a putty knife.
In some cases a "burn in" type filler is best but I reccomend you do
this before the finish coats and you have to be pretty good. You melt
the burn stick to put some drops into the hole and then smooth it with
a heated putty knife. If it's not to hot you won't blister a film
finish but I find it easier to do it on un-filmed material (ie no
lacquer/poly, etc yet). I only use this stuff when I have big mistakes,
I do a similar thing, but use sawdust and a few drops of blond shellac.
I always shellac the piece first before staining (as a stain
control) so this blends in very well, and seems to take a stain
consistantly. It only works for fairly small cracks however.
What kind of glue do you use, and does it stain ok?
I am using Probond interior glue on this project. I have not used it before
so I don't know about staining. I usually slice any squeeze out off with a
chisel once the glue is set up but before it gets too hard.
I'd be sure to test this method on scrap, as it will change the performance
of most stains over red oak.
You may like the changes. Or not. So test.
PVA (yellow or white) glues and stains are generally speaking, on red oak,
not such good friends.
Famowood here, except if the wood is knotty or has many pitch pockets.
In the latter case, I'll tint epoxy, let it cure, smooth it with a
chisel or plane, and not worry about the "feature" taking stain.
Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based
Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want to
be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I wouldn't
mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very good
cartridge based mask.
OK - thanks. I will give the solvent based Famowood a try. I take it "fir"
is a color of Famowood??
I don't see who their retail suppliers are on their website. Can you tell me
where you buy it? (I live in Massachusetts but if you buy from a chain like
ACE or something, I can probably find them out here.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 20:20:19 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
don't know about that brand, but I tried some tests with a few brands of water
based fillers, thinking that you'd use them with water based stains, but the
solvent based fillers worked much better for both oil and water based stains..
This is not really a testimonial but a professional painter recently
told me that the Leech Real Wood Filler from the squeeze tube works
very well with oak. He said the stuff in the tube is not as thick (as
in the can) and seems to take stain better.
I don't finish anything that I don't build for myself so I can't
really give you any first hand info.
While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept the
stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something much
bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish to
seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into a few
samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick the
one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with a
damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will
prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when dry.
It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of finish
can be applied.
As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding and
sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
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