It does here. The reflective side suffers more. I have raw pieces that have been outside for years. Gets dirty! I use it in all my solar. You can paint, or cover in thin ply if you wish. This stuff is stiff but it can be punctured. It's also easily repaired.
or will some kind of exterior skin be necessary?
No. You can do without one if you don't mind a little rough around the edges, so to speak.
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff!
advice. It's just going to be an insulated box with repurposed house windo ws tilted at 45 degrees (Wisconsin) and a small fan to circulate air. Any i mportant things I need to keep in mind?
Well, yeah: you need to figure a way to block the sunlight if it gets too h ot, and stop the venting when the moisture level is 'right'. Kiln drying is done by a prescription of time/temperature/humidity, and get ting it done RIGHT is harder than getting it done.
You might want to read all of the USDA _Wood_Handbook_ but especially chapter 13
advice. It's just going to be an insulated box with repurposed house windo ws tilted at 45 degrees (Wisconsin) and a small fan to circulate air. Any i mportant things I need to keep in mind?
There's a bunch of good information on the Virginia Tech website:
If you are electronically-minded, you can use an Arduino to manage/monitor temps and humidity.
From what I have read, kiln-dried wood that is brittle and hard has been ba dly kilned. Properly kilned timber to 7% humidity should be better than air
-dried.
The key is, don't let it get too hot, don't let it dry too fast. Unless you constantly monitor and manage the drying process, you can only guess at th e results. Managing that process by the use of a microprocessor-controlled venting circuit will take that guesswork away and result in a perfectly-dri ed product.
Building a control circuit would involve an Arduino, a solenoid of some sor t and an appropriately configured vent. I am guessing a cost of $30-50 and some thinkin' :)
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