If the depth of the dado needs to be accurate, the table saw is a better choice. If the thickness between the bottom of the dado and the outside wall of the panel is important, the RAS would be a better choice. IOW..of making gangs of bookcases out of irregular thickness plywood (as I have for the local library system) The RAS will give a much more predictable outcome. You can accurately regulate the length of the shelves and the dado depth will vary with the thickness of the plywood.
IF, I were to re-invest in a RAS..and I mean *IF*.. I'd be wanting an Original Saw Company 12" No doubt about it. Wonderfully built.
Depth functions on a "DeWalt/OSC" RAS are as accurate as any TS. You just gotta know how to make proper depth adjustments.
stuff (under twelve inches wide) is the table not being as smooth and nice on the RAS.
Granted, considering some of the crap tables supplied by the various manufacturers including B&D's DeWalt models. BUT....change that table to a
2 ply 3/4" plywood/MDF table (total 1 1/2" thick) with steel reinforcing strips you have a table (aka as a "Mr Sawdust" table) that's dead flat and as nice as any TS. What I do like about using a wood table is that it does have a bit of friction to it which makes ripping/shaping a bit safer than say slick piece if cast iron.David,
Using a properly aligned RAS (I'm talking DeWalt/OSC RAS models), a correct blade such as a Forrest WW1 TCP blade, your rips are PERFECT for glue up.
From the hip?
His post indicates the reality that depth of dado is determined by the face from which it's referenced. RAS gives consistent remainder, table or router, referencing as they do to the opposite face, give consistent depth.
As with any saw, initial set up is critical. With the RAS once the time and effort are taken to insure that the table and fence are properly set up, even my old Craftsman will provide a uniform cutting depth. Of course, if you don't do it right to begin with or have junion out in the shop sitting or jumping on the carriage arm, your mileage may vary.
There's one additional requirement for uniform depth of a dado cut: the top face of the stock being cut must be parallel to the bottom face. If these two surfaces are parallel, then a properly-tuned RAS /can/ produce results as good as those produced by a TS.
However, it's probably worth pointing out that the table saw will provide a uniform depth of cut without this requirement.
Any discussion of which tool best cuts a particular dado really needs to first reach agreement as to which workpiece face is to be the reference face.
-- Morris
And under no circumstances should you use the RAS table as a work bench. Or as storage for heavy stuff. Or as a seat for a tired butt. Obvious but not always. DAMHIKT, jo4hn
I usually make at least one pass through the jointer before trying to glue anything. I do have a WWII blade and it does make a nice cut, but the jointer still makes it cleaner and assures a right angle.
Steve
I haven't had any trouble with making perpendicular cuts with my Unisaw, due to the positive, repeateable stop for the tilt mechanism. My Crapsman TS, on the other hand...
Dave
Steve Peters> I usually make at least one pass through the jointer before trying to glue
I have been known to stand on mine, BUT I have a 2 ply, ply top with steel reinforcing and it does not move.
2 ply plywood? Two pieces of 3 or 5 or 7 (or more) ply plywood?
R, Tom Q.
Tom,
My 7790 uses 11 ply ply and my MB's use MDF. All reinforced with 5/8 steel strip epoxied into matching groves. The plys are glued together with white glue. Of course there is a 1/4" sacrificial top nailed into place.
All of which shows why RASs are ill-suited to ripping. Their principle purpose, for which they are very well suited, is crosscutting - where the teeth at the leading edge spin down.
Nope.
Expand on it, maybe... by pointing out that the principle use of a RAS is for crosscuts, and inviting you to notice which direction the teeth are moving in a crosscut.
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