Slightly OT: Playground Border

[Puckdropper]

We're looking at putting up a swingset with a 4x6 pressure treated wood border around the area. The border will keep mulch in as well as keep the lawn mower out. (Less to mow, yay!)

The border will be a single layer of 4x6 and laid on the ground. Does anyone have specific suggestions on how to attach the 4x6s together end to end? I'd probably use a tie plate and galvanized nails, but am wondering if that's the best way.

We experience approximately a 100F difference in temperature throughout the year, so expansion and contraction will be an issue.

Puckdropper

[Paul T.]

I have used liquid nails to join together 4x6's. I don't know how long this will last, but have survived a couple of winters and summers so far. The thing I liked about doing it this way, was there is no visible means that they are attached together.

Paul T.

[Larry Jaques]

On 27 May 2010 06:10:22 GMT, Puckdropper wrote the following:

Galvanized lag bolts (2 per joint) will work well, in addition to liquid nails floor goop. Counterbore them at least an inch and use 8" lags of any diameter you have handy. 1/4" is cheap, and there is no true structural need for more "beef" here.

Then I recomment an extra 10' buffer around each side of the swingset. In addition to much less lawn to mow, you don't want the kids falling off the swing and hitting their heads on the wood, so a buffer is necessary for kid safety. Wood chips and ground tires are being used for playground fall softeners.

--------------------------------------------------- I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol. ---------------------------------------------------

[Gerald Ross]

I drilled holes and drove lengths of rebar through into the ground. If you do this make sure you countersink the rebar.

The school here used what appears to be 6 inch PVC pipe. Not sure how they fastened it to the ground so it won't slide. I think this is not a good thing because kids WILL try to walk on it and slip off and fall.

[Lew Hodgett]

------------------------------------------- If I understand your description, it describes a serious accident waiting to happen UNLESS the mulch area is large enough to allow a kid to jump off a swing in motion and still land in a mulch area without hitting a 4x6..

Also, 4x6's resting on the ground pose a trip hazard.

Think I would find an alternate solution.

YMMV

Lew

[SonomaProducts.com]

Yup, this was my thought. No connection board to board, just hog a 1" hole through at each end and pound a piece of 3/4 steel pipe into the ground, through the board.

[Artemus]

Lap joint on the ends work well for both corners and in-line connections. McFeelys has some timber screws which will secure the joints for years to come. Counter sinking the heads is a good idea but I'd wouldn't worry about the kids tripping or slipping and falling as this is a consequence of growing up. Besides they're most likely to fall into the mulch or the grass which is NBD. Art

[Puckdropper]

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:4bfeb9cd$0$28396 $ [e-mail]:

Making the mulch area big enough for jump range is something I hadn't thought about. We were naturally going to add several feet (5-8ish) for landing zones and the like, but had no general rule of thumb.

I think a 4x6 is within most people's "hazard detection range." It is a tripping hazard, sure, but so is the blue line on an ice rink. Maybe a

6x6 would be better, as it's less likely for the grass on the outside to cover it.

Puckdropper

[Puckdropper]

Gerald Ross wrote in news:Ta2dnbxXt5j-6mPWnZ2dnUVZ [e-mail]:

The rebar is a good second option. It's no problem to drill through and pound some rebar in the ground, then cover the hole with some silicone.

Adults are the ones who have trouble with the 6" falls... The pipe will probably keep a lot of kids off once they discover they can't walk on it, but the more daring ones will keep trying again and again.

Puckdropper

[RP]

Years ago I built playgrounds for a living and we were required to use

2- 6x6's stacked on top of each other staggered and used timber spikes 3/8's or so thick 12" long and pre-drilled 5/16 holes. We ~had~ to use "Woodcarpet" TM not mulch (too many twigs to poke an eye out) 12" deep which would pack down to 8"-10" eventually. I think you will find that 4" will pack down to 2-3" which is practically no use at all as far as fall safety. If I were you I would use your 4x6's stacked 2 high for 8" or so and try to pile your safety surface to 8". 8' is code off of swings and slides as far as length away from the ends them. You do not have to do any of these as far as I know for a homeowner type of project. BTW, an 8" high wall is not a trip hazard, it's a real long balancing beam. Take all this with a grain of salt and do as you please.

RP

[J. Clarke]

Is this going to be a permanently well lighted area? Or locked up behind a good fence when not in use? What's perfectly acceptable in daylight can still be a hazard after dark.

[Lew Hodgett]

------------------------------------------- If you want to keep the mulch and grass separated, consider the following:

Concrete patio blocks.

They are about 8"x16"x2" thick, come in colors and can be arranged in a geometric pattern. (Think mini sidewalk)

Also have half sizes available.

Prep the "mini sidewalk" area by removing the grass, laying down some plastic to keep the weeds out, then some sand for a base for the patio blocks.

Joint between the blocks with more sand.

Will keep the grass from coming across the blocks, be flush with the ground, and provide a surface for the lawnmower wheel when you mow.

Time for a brew.

You'll have earned it.

BTDT, don't need the T-Shirt.

Lew

[Puckdropper]

RP wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Thanks RP, we're looking at the newish rubber "mulch" for the area, and as I understand it there only needs to be half the material thickness for the same basic effect as regular wood mulch.

As I look more at this, I'm convinced we need to go deeper than a single layer of 4x6. It simplifies things regarding keeping the pieces in place, and would probably be nicer to sit on.

Puckdropper

[Puckdropper]

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:4bff0101$0$6611 $ [e-mail]:

It's an interesting idea, but I don't know how effective it would be in this scenario. The mulch would inevitably be kicked out by kids playing, which seems less likely with a little spare room at the top like a deeper wall provides.

Puckdropper

[Lew Hodgett]

----------------------------------- Are you going to have an entry opening(s) in the proposed fence to allow the kids to get into the swing area without having to step over the fence?

Lew

[Puckdropper]

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:4bff5e30$0$28333 $ [e-mail]:

No, the border should be quite short (7-12") so it should easily be stepped on or over.

I think I see where you're going here... An entry in the border would allow the mulch to be kicked out just as easily as the sidewalk border.

Puckdropper

[SonomaProducts.com]

, it describes a serious accident

What has our world come too, "serious accident jumping from a swing, trip hazard, yada yada"

Growing up we would jump from rusty chained swings with leather seats ready to break at any moment, on to hard asphalt covered with broken glass and used condoms while drunk on stolen whiskey and smoking reclaimed cigarette butts scrounged from festering ashtrays. Ahhh, the salad days of youth.

We are raising a generation of wimps now. Let 'em fall a few times, some shards of glass embedded in a knee builds character!

[-MIKE-]

Funny stuff.

I agree. In some of the parks/neighborhoods around here you see kids on bikes, wearing what is essential body armor. A helmet on a skateboard, I understand and support. But you see these tiny kids on bikes with training wheels, and they can hardly walk or stand up straight with all the padding.

[Lee Michaels]

Like George Carlin said, "We built up our immune system by swimming in raw sewage".

[Swingman]

As in most everything that Carlin said, there is kernel of hard truth at the bottom of that.

My favorite:

"If you think there's a solution, you're part of the problem."