I finished my shop a few years ago, with 9' ceilings (actually, closer
to 8' 10"), and I regret it. Stick the 10' measurement in, slop an
extra 4" of ceiling insulation in to reduce heating costs, and go.
The ONLY problem 10' ceilings create is changing light bulbs: you need
a ladder instead of a chair.
You won't spend that much more to go 10'. 2x4's are relatively
inexpensive and so is drywall. Your foundation and roof won't change at
all. I know it's more insulation and wiring etc. but how many times are
you going to get to build a shop from scratch.
Pick up a full piece of 4x8 plywood to move around and see how
high off the ground you lift it then figure how high the top of the
piece went. With lights and storage overhead you'll end up thinking
about 12' ceilings.
I think drywall can be special ordered in 5' wide pieces
(difficult for one guy to handle) but if you use regular 4x8 sheets
you'll split one to finish you your walls or if you go to 12' you
won't have to cut them at all.
Whatever you do I'll be jealous. I've got a 2 car garage that I
try to park one car regularly and everything is on wheels. I am happy
to have it but it would be nice to have permanent spots to park the
Brian Elfert wrote:
When we built our garage, I made a 2' high concrete perimeter foundation.
Then I built standard 8' high walls on top of that. Once the slab was
poured and the ceiling sheetrocked, I ended up with just over 9-1/2 feet
of ceiling height.
This has worked out to a very comfortable height for me. I can stand
plywood sheets on end, and carry them around easily. I can rotate the
plywood sheet end for end and not hit the ceiling. I can stand 8' boards
upright against the wall (I have to set 10' boards at an angle, or lay
them flat). And, I can easily maneuver 7 foot high cabinets (pantry,
I used low profile T8 Fluorescent lights on the ceiling, electronic
ballast, instant on, no flicker, good in cold weather. They only stick
down about 4 inches from the ceiling.
I used garage door tracks that sit a little closer to the ceiling, but
they still stick down about 1-1/2 feet from the ceiling. I've banged them
with a board once or twice, but since they only stick out 9' into my 28'
garage, they're not usually a problem.
I used 2x6 studs with R19 insulation, and a 4000 watt Cadet "Hot One"
electric heater will just keep it warm in there when I need heat. It's a
little undersized for the space (I should have about 6500 watts for my
650 sq/ft), but I don't need the heat very often, and 67-68 degrees feels
really warm when I'm busy working.
Ok, I've got ceiling envy now... *g*
If it's affordable, I'd go 10'.....
If you work with sheet goods, picture flipping over a sheet of plywood and
catching a corner on a light fixture...
My work area is divided in 2 areas, one with 7' ceiling and the other with 9' or
so at the peak.. I find myself stepping outside the garage door to handle 8'
tow-bys and sheet goods...
Please remove splinters before emailing
I have 10' ceilings in my garage.... errr, shop. I love it. I know
I'd be whacking the ceiling a ton if they were 9'. As well, if I were
building a dedicated shop I would do the framed floor as someone else
here suggested. Run all your DC and wiring below the floor. There are
so many advantages to this:
1. Unbelievably easier on your joints and back. My floor is concrete
and it's a killer. I have 25 of those 3'x3' rubber mats and my back
still gets very sore.
2. Your shop will be much cleaner looking and you won't have pipes to
bang material into. I know about this!
3. Your DC system will work much better. The piping won't have to run
from the floor to the ceiling and back down again. This is a big deal
in the DC world.
If you're set on a concrete floor with no subfloor then plumb your DC
and wiring right into the concrete. I've seen this done and it's
fantastic. You just don't get the benefit of the wood floor being
easier on your body. The only catch is you need to plan your shop and
tool placements very well. It will be a lot tougher to move your TS to
the other side of the shop afterwards.
Have you consider ICF instead of stick built? I went that route, and
16' sidewalls. W/ a 16 sidewall you can put in a lofted area and add a
lot to your useable square footage.
Just a consideration. Given your suggested budget, this is a
possibility. I built mine in the neighborhood of your budget. But
this will vary based on location and other variables.
I plan to use basically everything from the Fine Homebuilding article
except the foamboard sheathimg. Plywood only costs $5 a sheet more and
eliminates the issues of shear strength and hanging siding.
I have 9 1/2 ft ceilings in basement / wood shop. This height is
plenty high enough for me. I also have radiant floor heat which is
absolutely wonderful! The only thing I would have done different if I
could do it over again would be to my a floor plan for my shop and put
the dust collection pipes in the floor.
Brian Elfert wrote:
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