"Shortening" 3/4" plywood cabinets

Assuming your reference edge against the rip fence is even all the way around on both ends I would cut the 3" off with the TS but have the 3" on the waste side. The box is too tall/wide to be a particularly vulnerable kick back hazard. Just make sure the work remains against the fence during the entire cut.

On Tue, 14 Feb 2012 15:58:31 -0500, Greg Guarino

I have one of these and it's very useful. That's what I'd use and a circular saw with just enough blade to cut through the wood.

I have in fact trimmed boxes of about 18X18 on my table saw simple by running them against the fence with the waste on the left of the blade. In your case, if there is no outfeed table I'd skip the table saw... Too much weight to try to juggle around on a running saw as the cut is completed. Bad things can happen!

Do you have a rip guide for your circular saw? My two Porter Cable saws (7

John

I agree with Leon re the reference edge. However, I've done this before with the waste against the fence. My TS has a 50" fence so I put the fence on the left side of the blade to allow use of the wider right side table. After the second cut I tacked a couple of pieces of 1/4 ply over the cuts (inside the box) to stabilize the remaining cuts. Art

Dave wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I have a clamp-on "ruler" like that, and it is worth the investment. A careful measurement of the extra distance so the saw cuts where you want it is fairly easy. Mine is about 5".

Mine frequently doubles as a router guide. It really is a handy tool.

As other's have noted, you can do it on a table saw, with a circular saw, and with a hand saw.

I'm with Leon on the Table Saw. I would not hesitate to make the cut on the table saw with an outfeed table, BUT, with the keeper part against the fence!

On either the circular saw, or with a table saw, if you're worried about the off cut binding (which can happen with either one), there is a very simple solution to that which makes it much safer all around:

Span the kerf cut on each side after it's made, with some scraps, hot glued to the _inside_ of the cabinet ... that will keep the cutoff 3" part from moving/flopping around on you as you make each subsequent cut.

Using the table saw, this is a safer method I've used a few times on tall boxes, as well as cutting large recycled plantation shutters down in size.

YMMV ...

Greg Guarino wrote in news:jhehtd$rij$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Circular saw with an edge guide, e.g.

Looks like three setups from here, not six...

This is not Not NOT a good idea.

Any time you hear a little voice in the back of your head saying "this could be dangerous", LISTEN.

You're right, this could be dangerous. Real dangerous.

Is there some reason you can't set the fence at (height of box minus 3") from the blade, so that the box is on the fence side of the blade, and the waste on the free side?

Dave wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I bought that accessory but haven't yet used it.

It sounds as if you have or have access to one of those little direct drive table saws with a dinky little table. I would not attempt the cut with one of these. If it is a real table saw with off feed and side tables, it would be my first choice. It sounds to me that you may be better served with the circular saw. One of the big problems will be splintering of the finish cut as the blade teeth come up. You will need to cut through the finish veneer with a utility knife or similar before cutting. It would be a prime candidate for making a circular saw edge guide similar to this:

Screw or clamp a scrap straight edged board/strip, as a circular saw guide, onto the waste side and cut it.

Sonny

I think I'd use a circular saw cutting just proud of the line and then use the clamped on fence and a router to trim to the line.

I've done this several times - on my dinky little toy table say.

It _usually_ goes ok... But if it grabs it's gonna be ugly.

---------------------------------- I'm with Jack.

I've even done it with my Bosch 1587 and a router.

Neat, clean & safe.

BTDT.

Lew .

Snip

I generally do it with a hatchet. It has to be very sharp. First I snap a chalk line, enhance it with a magic marker and go to work. It helps if you cut through the veneer layer with a chainsaw, bow saw or similar instrument. Then, working slowly (as I always do), you use the hatchet to "sneak up on" the line. It is a lot of work, but most of us need more exercise anyway.

You have a table say!! I have no say at the table. :!)

Do you mind your manners at the table?

That's fine most of the time, but in this case there'd be no exposed edge to clamp to. The guides you suggest would solve that problem.

Of course, screwing a straight edge into the "waste" part of the box would work as well. In that case I'd probably have to run the "narrow" part of the saw plate against the fence though, as the amount I'm taking off is probably less than the width of the "wide" part of the saw plate plus the width of the guide.

Still thinking. Thanks for the tip.

I assume this means setting the fence 24" (the intended finished height of the cabinets) to the right of the blade. I have to check. This might be more than the saw's capacity.

I'll bet. If there is indeed enough width to the table saw, I would in fact have an outfeed table.

That sounds like skill might be involved; to move the saw just right through the cut and offset any tendency it might have to curve toward the edge. I'd have to practice on scrap first.