When I was in Phoenix, I had that issue. I wanted to build the
sharpening system from the drill press. Of course, I didn't have a drill
press at the time. Now I do and we've moved. I've lost that issue. Is
there someone that could scan and email that particular article?
As an alternative, I'll take any and all suggestions on sharpening. I've
yet to actually do it (sharpen anything other than the lawn mower blade
- and rough at that!) so any suggestions, hints, books, etc would be
I made one and almost finished. It's 2 1/4" thick, X about 7 1/8" across the face.
I used two 3/4" plywood layers and the top layer is 3/4" melamine particle board
for flatness. Cut them on a band saw with a simple jig.
I had the arbor cut by a machinist, 5/8" cold roll rod with a standard 5/8" threading
for 6", and lathed down to 1/2" thickness for a 1 1/4" distance for the chuck end.
10" total length, $25.
I bought horse butt leather (very tough!), I cut the disc using a pen scribe with a
carbide tip (General) (the roundness of that tip keeps it from cutting off track),
then finished the cut with a pocket knife when the kerf was thin enough. I used the
circumference of the finished disc to guide the cutting. eBay: 8113490412 is the
only place I've found it, and that seller's website: Brettuns Village.
Around the circumference will be a strip of the rougher side of the same leather, at
about 1/2 the depth and maybe something else for the other half. This will be
roughly 24" long! There are the different bars of rouge, green and white compounds
to consider so it might be all leather on the circumference side.
The only adhesive will be a light amount of 3m super 77. You can also make discs
of 1/4" thin PB (what's it called, clipboards are made of it, dark brown) that are
removeable, maybe using hook and loop (velcro) to attach them. That way you could
make any number of abrasive discs, just for the top. With this idea you can also flip
the whole disc over on the arbor.
The idea will work fine with a drill press as long as you can get the speed down as
low as is possible to avoid bluing the metal with heat and destroying the temper,
currently I can't do that but I will risk trying it, 600 rpm. The most important
work out is the arbor hole MUST be *perfectly* centered, or it will wobble and not
be good for drill press.
I did it all out of my own strange head, you don't need a "design". Just measurements.
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