Shop heat

You did not say if the heaters came on or not. Just that the fan no start. A lot of times there is a sail switch in the duct work for safety. If this switch does not move and close the heaters cannot come on. Motor start is one thing but how about the heater elements. Also there may be an overload switch near the heaters. If it gets to hot the heaters will shut down. It is about the size of a half dollar. ( Banks might still have a couple on hand if you need a reminder. ) As for the capacitor try starting the furnace, then shut off the breaker or disconnect. Then remove the wires from the capacitor , if there is a resistor between the terminals cut the thing off. then short across the terminals with a screwdriver,.make sure it is insulated drive not one with an old broken wooden handle . If it snaps the cap is good . The resistor was only there to bleed off the cap when power was off so don't really have to worry about replacing. Run capacitors are oval with low micro-fared ( 5=15 mfd at maybe 300volts). Start caps are round and high like 80 or so. Also check the relay that pulls in the power to the motor. Lot of mfg had a lot of different ways for safety. so follow the wiring if you can. After you get your hands out of the furnace THEN go turn the breaker on.

Mine's about 120 sq ft ...less until I get rid of the scrap wood. I use a 220v barn heater if doing a short term job, but cank up the wood stove if longer. I have a 120v baseboard heater chugging along on bottom low all year to stop getting too hot/cold causing rust problems [on the saw, not me], but not warm enough to work in. The shop is well insulated. It has to be at 40 below. But with the stove on I can live there, and have the boys in for some tall tales about what we're gonna build.

As well you should.. ;-)

Used to live in an older home - wood was the sole source of heat. Didn't die - didn't pay a lot of money for fuel, either. My turnings gone awry and scrap should be worth a _few_ BTU's.

Greg G.

Yea, but how do you keep the floodwaters and crickets out of the shop?

Greg G.

had something else for about a year in there, so the total was 11 winters. If it is all you have, it modifies your schedule--can't stay gone more than 24 hours in NY winters without someone coming in to feed the fire and haul ashes, etc. I had reached the stage where I bought wood by the truckload--logging truck--to keep from having to chase it down. A chainsaw, some splitting wedges and a couple mauls (at least a couple as I have a real handle busting talent) and $150 would cover a very warm winter.

And then there was the winter when the guy showed up with about a dozen

Shivered a lot with stuff. It's much better for woodworking.

The orange borg is running what now appears to be an annual insulation special. Buy $250 worth of insulation, get a $75 gift card. Time to insulate!

-John in bloody cold NH

I doubt you'll get a condensing furnace installed for $1000. Labor is a good chunk of the cost. Does your shop even have propane or natural gas piped to it?

Brian Elfert

hello,

BTW, in some states like Idaho, you get tax breaks for insulating previously uninsolated structures...

cyrille

On Mon 07 Nov 2005 02:27:24p, "Cyrille de Brébisson" wrote in news:MMObf.15961$ snipped-for-privacy@news.cpqcorp.net:

Heh. In certain parts of mine, you have to buy a permit, submit a rather complicated form documenting its thermal retention properties, use an approved heat source, and go through two inspections.