We've been here before. Checked the wiring and turned my electric
furnace on and got a modest "hummmmmmmmmmm" for my efforts.
No big deal, I guess, as I had money in the circuit breaker and cable,
but not in the furnace. Which is why I don't wish to add any more cash
to that cow.
I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?
If it seems to, I'll stick one of those up in each corner of the shop
and get on with it. I'm not up for rerouting ducting for a furnace,
among other fun chores, so ceiling mount radiant heat might be the
Well, the radiant heat that warms surfaces will eventually radiate
into the air FROM those surfaces, but... I know what you're saying.
Heck, I'm still using a portable Kerosene heater - it'll roast your
butt off in a little while. But my DC is outside, and I DO NOT
paint/lacquer/varnish/clean brushes with MS inside the garage. It
worked pretty well for a few years, but now that kerosene is up to
$3.50 a gallon, I'm not so sure...
And it does smell when you shut it down.
(And for cripes sake, no threads on carbon monoxide poisoning,
Found that this electric heater: Dayton G73 (actually manufactured by
Marley Products as their UH5xx series) works quite well. Have a 30amp
circuit available? This is plenty for a 13'x24' well-insulated shop in
the Chicago area.
As the David mentions, radiant isn't likely to do the job you want
unless you're actually talking about convection heat units mounted (ala
electric baseboard heat).
Cleaning the baseboard units would be a pain, as would the wall space
that would be wasted.
OTOH, I do have the draft from the forced-air from the Dayton stirring
things up. Hopefully that will be a minor downside since I have now
have a dust collector AND air filtration system in the shop.
On Sat 05 Nov 2005 06:35:03p, Unquestionably Confused <puzzled2
Glad to hear that. I'm in WI not far from Chicago, with a 20x20
uninsulated, unattached garashop that I'm planning to weatherize this
winter. I bought a Farenheat 240V which looks like it's pretty much the
same thing as the Dayton and got it installed yesterday. When the doors
were closed it did a really good job for that 45 degree rainy/windy day. It
went from damp and chilly to nice and comfortable in about twenty minutes.
Near as I can figure, that unit costs me about fifty cents an hour to run.
I know I won't be able to keep the shop above freezing all winter but at
least it'll be comfortable while I insulate, put up slatwall, cover the
rafters, and all that stuff I probably should have done this summer but
made sawdust instead. :-)
My shop is a dedicated 13x24 area in a detached 36x24 garage. Fully
insulated, thermopane windows in the shop area, etc. Concrete slab.
Installed the Dayton in February and set it to keep the shop between
50-55 degrees. If I'm going to work out there I go in when I get home
from the office and crank it. By the time I can change into work
clothes, I can work in shirtsleeves even if the temperature is below
As for the cost? I used to use a Redi-heater and Kero-Sun heater when I
worked out there. Priced K-1 lately?<g> No smell, and I've not yet had
a heart attack looking at the electrical costs since we're total
electric out here anyway.
I've used one for the last couple of years in my third bay shop here in
Colorado. It's good for local heat and comfort if you are working in a
small area (say doing joinery or marquetry at your workbench).
It doesn't put out enough heat to heat the shop area; over the period of
an hour or so it may shift the overall temp by a couple of degrees at most.
Mine was very inexpensive from the local home improvement store
(Sutherlands), and is the exact same brand and model that Lee Valley
carries for a few dollars more.
Shoot. I guess I mess with a more costly form of heat. It might even
pay to see if I can replace the fan motor on this old furnace, which is
a royal pain in the tail.
Thanks. This place is wonderful for arcane info about a whole lot of
semi-woodworking related things.
It shouldn't be that hard to DO, unless it's concealed, too high, etc.
But the leg work to find the motor...
What's wrong with it? Are the windings burnt, or (much more common)
are the bearings just stuck? Insert repair sequence here...
And like a nube, I told my tale of kerosene (and carbon monoxide), but
forgot about the new weather stripping and such I put on the
garage/shop this summer. Went to light it tonight and it struck me...
Now _I've_ got to find an alternate form of heat.
For a garage. With a non-insulted floor. And two wood garage doors.
Greg G. (in email@example.com) said:
| Now _I've_ got to find an alternate form of heat.
| For a garage. With a non-insulted floor. And two wood garage doors.
Does the garage have a south-facing wall?
DeSoto, Iowa USA
WAY ahead of you - but no.
My fun-time reading in 1980 consisted of:
Under Ground, Earth Bermed, and Solar Efficient Homes
by some dorks at MIT. I was preparing for this even then...
The book was subsequently burned - and no, not by a solar heating
experiment gone awry - I believe it was a conspiracy by the oil
plutocracy, but that's another story...
It must have been a successful conspiracy, however, because I now find
myself chained to a fuel-screw home.
It may only be the capacitor. My knees are acting up, so I hate
climbing the pull-down to check the thing out again, but I guess
tomorrow evening, when it cools down, is a good time. I've got to drop
a jointer at a freight company tomorrow a.m. early, get that off my
back (3 to go!). There may be some fun with the capacitor, as the
furnace is at least 20 years old. Worked when I got it 5 years ago.
With the gear I have now, the best way to check the capacitor is to
get the numbers, buy a new one and try it. I did locate my small
multi-meter a couple days ago, right on the beam running down the
center of the attic, next to the furnace.
Anyway, what I get now is a humming noise, which tends to remind me of
a motor with a bad capacitor, but it's been a lot of years since I
fiddled with them, so what do I know. No motor shop here, but maybe one
in Roanoke or L'burg. I do have a nearly new motor out of an old oil
furnace. Wonder if that will fit?
Damn, Charlie, you ARE THE MAN! A dedicated multi-meter, just for your
Possible that the problem is the centrifugal starting switch. I have an
intermittent problem with one on a heavy-duty paper shredder at the
office. In my case, I was able to rule out the capacitor (after using
your method, of course<g>) by turning the motor by hand a half turn and
then applying power to it. It turned right over. Give your squirrel
cage or fan a spin and then apply power and see what happens.
A shot of electrical contact cleaner and/or blast of compressed air
aimed at the switch may be all you need. If that gets it going again
fine. If it only works to be a temporary cure at least you know you're
not looking at a great expense. A motor repair shop should be able to
take care of relatively cheaply. Of course you still get to work on it
up in that attic. Sucks to be you<g>
You did not say if the heaters came on or not. Just that the fan no
start. A lot of times there is a sail switch in the duct work for
safety. If this switch does not move and close the heaters cannot come
on. Motor start is one thing but how about the heater elements. Also
there may be an overload switch near the heaters. If it gets to hot the
heaters will shut down. It is about the size of a half dollar. ( Banks
might still have a couple on hand if you need a reminder. ) As for the
capacitor try starting the furnace, then shut off the breaker or
disconnect. Then remove the wires from the capacitor , if there is a
resistor between the terminals cut the thing off. then short across the
terminals with a screwdriver,.make sure it is insulated drive not one
with an old broken wooden handle . If it snaps the cap is good . The
resistor was only there to bleed off the cap when power was off so don't
really have to worry about replacing. Run capacitors are oval with low
micro-fared ( 5 mfd at maybe 300volts). Start caps are round and
high like 80 or so. Also check the relay that pulls in the power to the
motor. Lot of mfg had a lot of different ways for safety. so follow the
wiring if you can. After you get your hands out of the furnace THEN go
turn the breaker on.
Charlie, I don't know what size your shop is, but a 1500 watt electric
heater warms my little shop from freezing to 60 in a couple of hours.
Then I turn it down to where it runs only occasionally to maintain the
heat. If the weather is really cold, I leave it run all night sitting
on the cast iron saw table for safety.
My shop is only 150 square feet, so you might need more than one, but
they're cheap. At least it would be an interim solution.
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