I'm about to run some conduit and wiring in my garage for additional AC
outlets. I'm fine with the basics but I want to allow for a 220V outlet for
that new tablesaw I hope to have one of these days. I want to run hot wires
from two different breakers and alternate 110 outlets between the two
circuits but is it OK to end the run with the two hot wires going to the 220
volt outlet? It seems like it should be just fine but I thought I would ask
before going out to buy the stuff. Is there any problem with using one of
the 110 outlets at the same time I use the tablesaw connected across both of
them? Assuming I don't draw more amps than the individual circuit can
handle, of course.
Another question I have is whether there is any type of gadget available
that will turn power on to my dust collector (shopvac) when I use the table
saw and is there any special wiring I should consider in advance for
something like that.
I know this isn't an electrical forum but I also know many here have done
Not a good idea to have portions of two circuits in one box. Keep those two
different 110's separate. My gut tells me there are other reasons, too,
but I can't think of them all now.
Another reason is that you will want to wire the table saw for at least 25
amps, and that would be too large for 110 volt devices, and the wires would
be too heavy to deal with.
Wire for the table saw with the two hot legs, and a neutral and a ground.
You could then hook up a 110 outlet on the side of the saw hooked into the
magnetic starter for your dust collector.
Jim in NC
I thought it was common practice to run two hot wires plus the neutral and
ground and alternate the circuits as you go down the outlets. I can't
remember if you have to have two neutral wires as well though. It's seems
like you would need two or one wire would have to handle current flow for
two different circuits. I understand DC circuits pretty well but AC
behavior is not something I know very well.
I don't understand what you mean by 25 amp circuits being "too large" for
110volts. That's just the amperage the circuit will provide before the
breaker trips. A 110V device will not draw more current than it needs no
matter how many amps the circuit is capable of providing.
No, with 110, you go with one hot (black, or color) and one neutral, and one
ground. To get 220, you use two hots and a ground. They are installed in
breaker slots above and right next to each other in the breaker box. As has
been posted, they will have a common handle. The only reason to run a
neutral with your 220 circuit, is if you are going to use a 110 circuit as
well as the 220. A welder, or table saw with only 220, would have three
prong plugs. A stove will have 4 prongs, because it uses 220, and 110, for
the timer and light bulb.
Do some research. It looks like you have a bit to learn.
Some will argue this, but in my view, the device (recepticle) is only rated
at 15 or 20 amps. It is not guaranteed not to fry at higher amps. Also,
the # 10 wire for a 25 amp circuit is so stiff, it is very difficult to work
with, getting it all bent up and stuffing two cables in a box.
Jim in NC
It depends on how you are wiring. When I wired the receps in my garage I ran
two complete circuits through the conduit runs. Meaning that I also had two
"neutral" or "return" conductors. There are two reasons to do this with 110v
#1- I had to as I am using GFCI breakers. They would trip instantly if I ran
only one common as there would be a difference in current between the supply
and the return.
#2- The answer to this is hinted at above. Lets explain with an example.....
#12 conductors are rated at 20 amps. Were you to put 20 amp loads on each of
these circuits, but have only one return, you would actually be handling 40
amps through the return line. Definite code violation and unless you are
running GFCI breaker it would work until the fire started......
While I agree with your statement that a device will only pull the amount of
current it actually needs, I believe Jim was referring to the fact that you
would need to use fairly heavy (#10 or better) conductors to handle this
load. Were you to connect lighter wire (#12 or #14) to a 25 amp breaker you
have committed a NEC violation. #12 is rated for 20 amps, #14 is rated for
15 amps. That you do not intend to draw 25 amps down that line does not
matter. The potential is there, it could happen. An additional thing to
consider is how difficult it will be to find 110v receps rated for above 20
amps. Again, draw more than the rated amperage from a recep and..........
I hope this helps. Absolutely no offense is intended but if these
explanations do not make sense then it may be time to consult a
professional. Electricity is not something to mess around with. If you have
other questions you could try the Taunton book "Wiring a House" by Rex
Cauldwell. It is a really good resource. Your local library probably has it
but it is worth the $15 to buy your own copy that reflects the 2002 NEC
"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are."
I will get you the section of the NEC when I get home (I don't have it with
me). This was obviously an oversight by the inspector. What is to stop you
from now moving the second leg to a breaker on the same leg (inadvertently
or purposely). As a degreed electrical engineer with over 20 years of
experience, I would never condone such an installation and I would certainly
not install a circuit like that for myself.
Another concern I have is that if one circuit is turned off w/o the other,
the neutral may still be carrying current and can present a shock hazard.
I will follow up later.
This is prohibited, at least in homes, by Article 210-4(b): "In dwelling
units, a multiwire branch circuit supplying more than one device or equipment
on the same yoke shall be provided with a means to disconnect simultaneously
all ungrounded conductors at the panelboard where the branch circuit
originated." [1993 NEC]
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
The catch here is "on the same yoke". If you hook this up "Canadian Kitchen"
style with a duplex outlet having one phase on top and the other on the bottom
(single yoke) you need the 2 pole breaker or single breakers with handle tie.
If these feed separate devices you can use separate breakers.
Personally I dissagree with this practice but it IS legal.
Oh yeah, I _do_ know what I'm doing. And, for the benefit of the _next_
person who has to work on the wiring, inside the box there's a _label_ on
each outlet, identifying which breaker it's on. As well as a _pictoral_
map at the breaker panel.
Thank-you for clarifying this for everyone. I think there was some confusion
caused by my original response to Christopher. My reference was to 120v
circuits only (no mention of 240v in my post).
"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are."
Run a separate wire for the 220 circuit. Install at least two 220
receptacles. There should not be any 110 receptacles connected the
the 220 circuit.
The "Long Ranger" comes in 110v or 220v models. It plugs into a
receptacle then you plug in your DC. A remote turns it on/off.
A shopvac doesn't have the necessary cfm nor capacity for proper dust
collection of most woodworking machines.
In residential electrical, you never run more than one device off a 240v
circuit. I don't know if there is a specific code against it, or if it is
just a matter of what is practical; all the wiring on the circuit (including
the outlets) has to be capable of handling the current the breaker is rated
at, so it might not even be possible.
You can run a 240v circuit to put the each 120v outlet on a box on a
separate circuit. It is called a multiwire circuit, and it commonly done in
kitchens; though I personally think it is a poor practice. I have never
heard of mixing 240 outlets with 120v outlets on the same circuit; you
probably run into the same problems mentioned above. You can check with
your local building department, but it seems like a mistake even if not
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