I know shop heat has been discussed, but I'm finally able to get out
of the small basement room and build a shop aprox 24x36 with a
basement slab downstairs for car/atv work and a full upstairs for
woodworking. I'm digging out tons of dirt now. It's on a sloped lot,
so both will walk out to ground level. I'm debating ideas of layout
and heat. I'd like to have some HVAC or fan sytem so that it is usable
in the summer and winter. I'm thinking of installing in-slab tubing
and a small woodstove in the basement and fans and/or AC upstairs.
Insulation of course. I've only used a portable propane heater before.
I would appreciate any details of installing a minimum cost water
heating system to just take the cold edge off the slab in the winter.
Can I just use a std water heater & small circ pump? What about
keeping the air out of the tubing? Plumbing & manifold details? No one
really does this down here. I have 500' of PEX available. Any
recommendations on a small wood stove? Should I completely avoid this
in an area with cars? Maybe just install a heat pump with little or no
ductwork? Located in Knox TN, so it is not a brutal winter, but can be
very humid in the summer. I'm also thinking of installing 5" or 6"
pipe in the trusses between the floors for a minimal DC system
upstairs. I've never seen this done. DC lines always run overhead.
Cost is always a concern. Any ideas appreciated. Thx
Yes to hydronics. It's a radiant heat, which seems more comfortable
than forced air - warms the objects directly, rather than using
air to heat them up. I would, however, not use the same water system
for the heating as you have for your potable water - make the heating
loop a closed-loop system, it simplifies the plumbing. Look into
using a water heater for the hydronics if your capacity numbers work
out, they're less work than keeping a boiler happy.
I live in Fargo, ND and floor heat here is nice. In your area I think it
would be over kill! If you want heat in the winter and AC in the summer I
would go with a heat pump, they are a perfect match for your climate.
email@example.com (c) wrote in message
I have the arrangement you are considering. Garage on first floor and
wood shop in loft above. The second level floor is constructed of Tru
Joist I beams and a one ince thick oriented strand (OSB) floor. I
installed dust collector outlets for my table saw and a floor sweep in
the floor (fitting the tubing between the joists). I also installed
the electrical supply to the table saw in the floor. Just remember
that for fire protection purposes you will have to sheetrock the
garage ceiling. So plan your installation in advance. You may want
to fit a soffit across the first floor ceiling to allow for snaking
additional floor runs of dust collector tubing. Or you can always cut
the sheetrock and patch it. I also have dust collector pickups
hanging from the ceiling (piping in the attic). These work well for
connecting sanders, the planer and a second dust pickup on the blade
guard of the table saw.
I heavily insulated the shop walls and roof. Even up north
(Philadelphia area) in the winter the shop reaches a comfortable
temperature when heated by the lights, motors, dust collector and air
filter. I use a 1200 watt portable (oil filled) electric heater to
warm it up at the start of the day. In the summer the afternoon sun
does make it too hot to work there for long past 4 PM. I am
considering a small air conditioner. Remember that you need to return
the dust collector outlet to the shop otherwise your heating and
cooling costs will skyrocket. A cylcone located in the garage with
tubular outlet filters in the shop would be perfect.
When I moved in I debated what to put on the floor. SWMBO suggested
just paint the OSB floor as it would be non slip as is. Three years
later and she is still right.
There is no real reason a dust collection system can't be put in the
floor, but there are a few down sides to it that you need to consider in
setting up your system:
1. When you reorganize your shop (note I did not say if) and relocate
equipment it will be more difficult to move the DC outlet.
2. You will be left with holes in the floor.
3. You will be taking conditioned air out of your shop with the DC
system so your heating and cooling costs will be higher unless you
return that air to the shop.
I made a DC system using a 2' x 2' drop box with a Dayton blower on top
exhausting into a bag filter on top of a galvanized garbage can. It
worked well, you could hear chunks of wood hit the baffle in the drop
box, and sand paper would be sucked up if pieces were left on the lathe.
I just have to get it set up in my new shop.
Woodcraft supply has an article on their web site about using PVC piping
for dust collection - take a look.
Blast gates are down in price and they increase the efficiency of a DC
system, plan on getting them. In my system I used microswitches at each
blast gate to turn on the blower. I used a furnace relay to provide low
voltage to the microswitches which then controlled the blower.
You might want to do a little research before putting your shop on the
second floor. I have heard repeatedly that all stationary power tools
work best with lots of weight and sitting on concrete. A friend of mine
once had his Woodfast lathe in a second floor room of his house. After
about a year, cracks started appearing in walls. A building inspector
told him the vibrations were damaging the structural integrity of his
-mike paulson, fort collins, co
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