I am going to build a storage shed. I've got more
than enough plans and ideas but one.
I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof. I don't
want a roof higher than about 15" +/- above the door.
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.
Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds? I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.
The shed plan is a standard gable style.
Ideas? Thoughts?
MJ
On 09/10/2009 12:35 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
I built my gable-end shed roof with a 10/12 pitch. This gave me storage
room above the rafters, which is accessible via a small opening in the
gable. I use the rafter area for storing long lumber and my spare set
of car wheels.
I think it boils down to whatever you like...as long as it's waterproof
and strong enough to take any required loads (do you have snow?) you're
golden.
Chris
Chris speaketh the truth in the last paragraph, I think. I'd just add
that it might make sense to take a gander at the roof of your house and
consider possibly doing something similar, or at the very least
harmonious. Not a hard and fast rule, of course, and maybe more a
question of roofing materials than pitch.
I do wish my shed (that I did not build) had more roof overhang than it
does. It would keep the siding material in better shape, and especially
help prevent water from getting into the padlock and causing grief
there. I also kind of wish there were a bit better ventilation;
something like a soffit vent or ridge vent or gable vent is a good idea
(screened, of course, to keep the critters on the correct side).
--
Andrew Erickson
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
On Thu, 10 Sep 2009 22:59:18 -0400, Andrew Erickson
My 10 X 10 has a 15 X 15 roof and a 10.5.5 -12? (40 degree? pitch
with vented soffit and a full length ridge vent. The roof rafters are
10 footers. I have about 4 1/2 feet of height at the center of the
"attic" and about 2 feet at the "knee wall" on the one side. The roof
is offset, with about 4 feet overhang on one side and one end, and
one foot on the other. Makes "dry" storage under the one end and a
"porch" over the door.
Ever about every 4 to 6 month, I take the oil can to the shed and
liberally oil the padlock. I squirting the oil into the workings of the
lock, turning it over to insure the oil gets to everything in the lock.
The oil seems to prevent the water getting into the padlock working
messing it up.
But you would not get the oil running out of the lock down the shed door.
Seriously; even the weather resistant/proof locks need a little help
after hanging on the shed door for several years.
Hang a flap of inner tube rubber over the lock. No problems.
Or do like I did - put a REAL door and lock kit on the shed, protected
by overhang, just like the front door on the house. (even same key)
If you roof with asphalt, that's about one square. Roof
material is heavy enough you'll have a bit of a truss, not
just 2x4s from ridge to wall, so that 15" sets the brace
position (or less, if you want headroom). Steel roofing
is self-supporting, but might cost more.
If you want it aesthetic, try to match other roofs nearby.
In case of snow, steeper is better; in case of tree-droppings,
steeper is better. My shed needs broom-and-hose treatment
each fall.
My next shed will have a gambrel roof. This gives more space for the
small equipment and storage for other things.
The nice thing about the gambrel roof is it is easy to get into that
storage space.
How about building your shed 9-1/2' tall. For the exterior walls, if
paneled, put a single 4X8 sheet at the top.... with its bottom edge
beveled 30 degrees. Under that panel, put a 1X2" drip edge, which
would be angled down 30 degrees. Under the drip edge, put a 1-1/2'
tall panel. If the lower edge of the exterior wall ever rots, you
only have to remove/repair the bottom section. That lower section and
drip edge looks nice, also. That's what I did with my shop, using
T1-11 siding.
Sonny
There's only one rip, and no wasted wall sheathing, with an 8x10
shed. If that one rip is a deal breaker, I don't think the guy should
be building a shed. ;)
R
There's only one rip, and no wasted wall sheathing, with an 8x10
shed. If that one rip is a deal breaker, I don't think the guy should
be building a shed. ;)
Well.... you NEED a 5HP Saw Stop cabinet saw with 50" fence and a large
outfeed table, and an Oneida cyclone dust collector for that task.... it
could get expensive.
Using that as a reference point makes SWMBO feel a lot better about the 3 HP
Jet cabinet saw and 1.5 HP 2-bag dust collector.... or the new Porter Cable
circular saw. ;~)
John
Not sure why you say you need a truss. There are lots of 8x12 sheds
around here with just 2x4s from ridge to wall (and rafters to keep the
sides from spreading out). Actually, my own shed doesn't even have a
ridge board, the spacing is maintained by the sheathing.
Chris
I was thinking he'd not want rafters unless they were over head-
height,
but a useful shed might have only 4' or 5' walls. Ergo, trusses.
Nothing complicated, three or four sticks is enough.
What ever you spend a few dollars more and go with use radiant barrier
decking, silver side down. It "will" keep the shed and its contents cooler
in the summer.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.