I have an old router plane blade shaped rather like the following
(except the bevel is about 30 degrees)
| | /|\
| | |
| | |
| | 2 1/2"
| | |
| | |
| |_______\/____ ___
| \ |
| \ - bevel |
| \ 1/4"
|_______ 1" _________________|
I find this configuration a real bear to sharpen (as the blade is only
3/8" wide and thus very prone to rock). Do any of you have any
suggestions as to some sort of jig or other method of geting a straight
and even bevel?
Here is how I sharpen my router plane blade. Grinding has to be done on the
side of the wheel due to the shape of the tool. The resulting flat surface
is hand sharpened by coarse and then finer stones. I do this by running the
blade along the length of the stones with the stone box held securely in a
vise. Now for the soapbox: Why not learn how to hold your tools flat
against the stone rather than depending on a sharpening jig? This tool is
especially difficult because hollow grinding is not possible. The hand
router plane is one of my favorite tools, not used often but really nice
Dave, many people do not have the dexterity or fine motor control to be able
to do this. Its not a matter of learning. Its impossible. Also, some types
of blades are very difficult to hand sharpen reliably. A Stanley #8 jointer
blade comes to mind. There's absolutely nothing wrong with using a jig.
A #8 plane blade is just a wide plane blade- that's easy. you just need
to make sure your stone is flat... but that is true whether you use a
jig or not.
but having problems with your hands is another matter. in the case of
sharpening a small, oddly shaped cutter like a hand router, it is
sometimes easier to hold the cutter in a clamp, vise or purpose built
jig and hold the sharpening stone in your hands. small diamond files
can be very useful for this kind of thing.
Its a wide, thin blade that is long and heavy and wobbly when held by hand.
I can hand sharpen a chisel or block plane blade all day long and get good
results. I can do the blade in my #604 smoother. But I have a lot of
trouble finding the bevel on the #8 and then holding it steady. I got the
new Veritas II honing jig and its a piece of cake to sharpen now.
Construct a jig to hold it firmly, referenced to the table the
ScarySharp(tm) paper/diamond hone is on. That could be something
as simple as a raised honing surface and a 4" or 6" wood clamp
holding the iron on the table below, angled correctly, though this
would take at least 4 hands to set up.
After all else fails, read the instructions.
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