Larry Jaques wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
*snip*
I've had a couple painted concrete floors that started to peel after a short period of time. (Just a few years.) I want to stress the importance of proper prep, as I think that's what's causing the issues with peeling paint. (Improper prep.)
I guess some methods require a muriatic acid wash or etch to ensure good paint adhesion.
One last tip: If you're working with a precious spring sweep the whole area before beginning the project. That way, it'll show up better as it inevitably jumps yards away.
I think I agree with you. I think I'm going to take the box back. Thank you for helping to give me the strength to change my mind. No doubt others would do it a differently--and most of them would surely be finished by now. On the positive side, consideration of this approach was educational. If I am unable to thread the FMC and stay within the code, in my circumstances, then I can come back to this approach.
The technicalities concern how much of the FMC is allow to be exposed (4', I believe). I may have to do some new out of the box thinking.
My shop (garage) floor had been sealed, so it was a matter of getting all the old carpet padding adhesive off first. It had been converted into another bedroom, so I converted it back. And I had HVAC vent installed so it's conditioned. My shop door to the house looks like swiss cheese since I drilled it and put in a pair of Filtrete filters on the shop side. I don't use any chemicals in there unless the outside or garage door is open and a blower is going.
Yes, prep is of utmost importance. Clean the concrete. Let it dry _completely_. Now seal it if it's not already sealed. (You want that even if you don't paint it because it stops ALL concrete dust from flying.) Then paint it.
I've scraped bits off moving tools around, but none has peeled off.
Only epoxy, and that's a bear to do, considering prep, neutralization, and the whole epoxy thing. Pass. I used porch and floor paint.
Yes, or use the dust collector attachment as a vacuum cleaner.
Better yet, open the door and blow it out.
-- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. -- Freeman Dyson
I've got 3' wide strip of carpeting I often unroll to work on. Besides for protecting your knees, it keeps your light fixtures from being scraped up too. BTW, a little trick I invented for finding those lost springs and screws is a powerful magnet (I've got a 2 inch stack someone gave me from electronic devices--equivalent to the "rare earth" variety, I think). It even works in the grass!
I just looked it up. I had never heard of a paint stick. It appears, I have to review my FMC fundamentals and do some more drywall work to do before I'm ready to paint. "Oh when your smiling... " (an archaic musical reference combined with a tad bit of sacrasm (sic)).
Good, I don't need to fear "dust" in my finshes? Or just, rolling it off the ceiling? : )
"Two steps forward and three steps back, you'll never get very far like that..." (words from a popular country song in the mid 80's, I think).
Last time that happened, I was working on a fishing reel at the kitchen table. The precious little spring jumped into the shag carpeting at least twice. A magnet helped save my sanity.
BTW, your recommendations to clean the floor well before painting sounds like good advice!
Having done drywall now, and probably having another piece 19" wide and 4' long, you could just cut out the piece over the wiring and run the conduit to the box, then quickly replace the drywall, mud/sand and prime/paint. Piece o' cake, duck soup.
This kind of work is what the HF multifunction tool excels at. Use the half moon cutter butted against a piece of furring strip for straight cuts.
Here he goes again...
-- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. -- Freeman Dyson
Larry Jaques wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
If you simply attach several rare earth magnets to the front of your mower, it might pick up the spring next time you mow the grass.
One of those sandblast/medical isolation chambers with the attached rubber gloves might be just the thing for keeping springs where you can find them. You could even build your own without the gloves. (I'd probably STILL lose one once in a while.)
I've been intending to build a finishing booth (even got some good advice here about it) and just haven't gotten that far yet. It's nothing more than a 3/4" PVC pipe frame covered with some cloth to keep the dust out of the finish. No glue, so it can be disassembled later.
I thought you might use it to go from the ceiling to the wall.
Got a bender yet? 1/2" emt is easy to work with. Go with light gauge wire and I think you can use it. Consult your NEC.
Hell, you'll get this thing done by Easter if you keep going!
P.S: Prime and paint the furring strips and emt before putting them up. Clean emt and fittings with lacquer thinner on a rag and it will take off the machining oils.
-- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. -- Freeman Dyson
The problem is that these meet at the eave. You couldn't even get a screwdriver close to there with taking a nail in the head or arm, let alone seeing what you are doing. It was all I could do to run romex through the top plate last summer (I make a hardboard panel to cover up all the nails between rafters).
Yep, got a bender at auction and have lots of #14 colored wire.
Classes start before the end of this week. If I could get things painted by mid-September (when the avg temp dips below 55), I could hang lights in the winter.
Gosh, should I be thinking about furring strips?
Dentatured alcohol okay for removing the machining oils? I know we don't want a fire, but we don't want rust either, right?
Huh? You're surface mounting everything except the feeds to the switches, which are in the wall, right? What's with eaves and top plates? Everything is under them. You'll use EMT between the fixtures and FMT from the center fixture to the wall with the switches, under the top plate, oui?
That'll do 'er.
Yeah, paint while the heat is on!
Buddy, YOU'RE the one who brought that little oddity up. Nobody else even -thought- about it. (It'd be oogly, if you ask me.)
Yes, no, and you're painting them, right? Appliance white spray or same as walls/ceiling, whichever, to match the fixtures.
-- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. -- Freeman Dyson
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