Have had moderate success on projects such as making 6 mission bookcases and have done a lot of other stuff so I'm moderately confident to attempt a paying project for a friend. He wants a wall to wall laminate counter top - Ok that seems easy and I searched on how to do that (use sticks to hold off while assembling put edges on first, trim, lay top, trim with angle bit, file to finish if needed).
The issue comes up with the base. Figured on using some common baltic birch plywood and Wilsonart laminate to match his coffee bar that was done elsewhere.
He wants a "built-in" type. Its about 90" wide, I'm using 4 base supports, they will be open with shelves for storage. I designed base supports that look like cabinet sides, with toe kick and everything. Was thinking of using my new Kreg kit to assemble the bottom fixed shelves and a back board. But.....here's where things get sketchy. How to best do some of the lamination and still be able to assemble?
Best I can figure, I'd make the fixed bottom shelves, laminate, drill bare bottom side for pocket screws. Then assemble on-site the vertical sides and add a 6" wide plain birch cross-rear support with pocket screws for stability at the top edge of the rear of cabinet and mount with pocket screws. Then spread glue and laminate the inside of the vertical supports, leaving overhang at front and top inside to be trimmed with a router and a fein type flat saw (are the harbor freight ones OK for occasional use? I'm running out of tool money lately). I'll end up with bare wood only where I can't trim close enough to the top/rear support. If I laminate first, there won't be anyway to easily use Kreg is there?
Also, I was going to use a rockler jig I had from my bookcases to make adjustable shelf holes, but have not done that on Laminate, figure its not too hard.
I have a combination blade on my tablesaw, would this be OK for cutting laminate - its reasonably sharp but have not sharpened since new and built the above bookcases and some other small projects with it.
I understand I may need like 2-3 coats of contact cement to make sure it adheres.
I have a bearing 1/4" 45 angle bit for edges, or will the flush cut bearing bit make a good junction? I have heard that people use particle board as its very smooth - granted it is, but this project is holding heavy printers and supplies like boxes of paper, so I wanted to make it 2x .75" baltic birch plywood underneath with a front edge board - or can one just glue to the side of plywood? Also, should I sand and give a quick poly wipe before gluing the main counter top to make sure it adheres?
TIA - Scott