Have had moderate success on projects such as making 6 mission
bookcases and have done a lot of other stuff so I'm moderately
confident to attempt a paying project for a friend. He wants a wall
to wall laminate counter top - Ok that seems easy and I searched on
how to do that (use sticks to hold off while assembling put edges on
first, trim, lay top, trim with angle bit, file to finish if
The issue comes up with the base. Figured on using some common baltic
birch plywood and Wilsonart laminate to match his coffee bar that was
He wants a "built-in" type. Its about 90" wide, I'm using 4 base
supports, they will be open with shelves for storage. I designed base
supports that look like cabinet sides, with toe kick and everything.
Was thinking of using my new Kreg kit to assemble the bottom fixed
shelves and a back board. But.....here's where things get sketchy.
How to best do some of the lamination and still be able to assemble?
Best I can figure, I'd make the fixed bottom shelves, laminate, drill
bare bottom side for pocket screws. Then assemble on-site the
vertical sides and add a 6" wide plain birch cross-rear support with
pocket screws for stability at the top edge of the rear of cabinet and
mount with pocket screws. Then spread glue and laminate the inside of
the vertical supports, leaving overhang at front and top inside to be
trimmed with a router and a fein type flat saw (are the harbor freight
ones OK for occasional use? I'm running out of tool money lately).
I'll end up with bare wood only where I can't trim close enough to the
top/rear support. If I laminate first, there won't be anyway to
easily use Kreg is there?
Also, I was going to use a rockler jig I had from my bookcases to make
adjustable shelf holes, but have not done that on Laminate, figure its
not too hard.
I have a combination blade on my tablesaw, would this be OK for
cutting laminate - its reasonably sharp but have not sharpened since
new and built the above bookcases and some other small projects with
I understand I may need like 2-3 coats of contact cement to make sure
I have a bearing 1/4" 45 angle bit for edges, or will the flush cut
bearing bit make a good junction? I have heard that people use
particle board as its very smooth - granted it is, but this project is
holding heavy printers and supplies like boxes of paper, so I wanted
to make it 2x .75" baltic birch plywood underneath with a front edge
board - or can one just glue to the side of plywood? Also, should I
sand and give a quick poly wipe before gluing the main counter top to
make sure it adheres?
TIA - Scott