I was blessed with some pks of Unifloor Auto clic 7mm Laminate Flooring made
from 90% Wood Fibers. It's made in Austria, says it's Certified E1, Quickstyle.
It was going to be installed in a basement, but there was an accidental
house-fire. (No one was hurt, Everyone and Pets got out, and it was fully
insured.) The fire was primarily on the 2nd story with some on the main floor.
The basement was subsequently "moistened" as the Fire Dept as they tried to put
out the fire, on the upper floors, with their hoses. (Was it just water or
Heavy Water? IDK) A complication was that there was a gas line issue and the
fire kept reigniting. Thus the house could not be saved.
In the basement Two cross windows were "left open" to the air and there was
both freezing and warming before I was able to get in and pull the packages out.
They were sitting on the "frozen" carpet in two stacks. When I got inside, the
carpet fibers rose out of the ice, but I have no idea of how deep the water got,
or how much evaporated away in our dry, windy Alberta weather. Most of the main
floor and 2nd floor windows were broken, so there was much airing of the place
so that there appeared to be no visible or smell-able mould/mildew on the main
or basement levels. I have a seriously good nose. I smell it on bread the day
before it appears.
The place just smelled of smoke. There was snow on the ground but really not
any visible inside, even in the totally open to the south, side of the family
room, and it was also without a significant portion of the room's ceiling as the
whole master bathroom above, roof and more, had burned away.
I put them, in a "frozen" state, of -17 degrees C, out on my semi
covered/sheltered deck that faces southwest. However a chinook hit and by
morning they were thawed. I was too busy and didn't even realize it was coming.
Oh well. So I decided to remove the "soggy" packaging figuring the dry wind
would do what it could to dry them out. I had also salvaged some baseboard and
thus, put them on these to give some more air circulation. I just put each pkg
on two parallel baseboards running kind of south to north because of how the
deck space is. The point is that the wind could not directly swoop underneath
because it comes from a more north west direction, so is somewhat slowed. Not
sure if it's important, but I'm told to be detailed.
They seem to be fine; flat, without any warping or swelling, unlike the particle
board shelves also removed.
Anyway several weeks later I've managed to get some Gorilla Rack Steel Shelving
Units built and was going to store flooring on them, till I can deal with the
job. The shelves are 34 inches wide and I'm told they hold 1000 lbs per unit of
5 shelves. I gather that to be 200 lbs per shelf. I weighed a pkg and it was 32
or 35 lbs. I can't remember, but let's go with 35 lbs. Thus even 4 pkgs would
only be 140 lbs and should be "safe" on each shelf. Yeah?
I decided the shelves were too short, only 34 in wide, and the planks, 54 5/16
ths, would stick out 10 in either side, if I wanted them to be balanced. I put
the two Units end to end, (Thus is a little over 68 in with the slight gap where
they can't quite touch side ends.), making sure they were level in my
sub-terrain basement walkout area. It is covered with a deck and also in a
Plasticized Garage like tent that opens on the lee side. There are retaining
walls 3 ft 8 in on the short and long sides with openings at ground level that
rise 4 ft 2 in to the deck bottom.. The other long side is the house. It's very
dry in there. despite just having softener salt bags filled with gravel around
the perimeter, holding the pole base plates and making a "sandbag" berm around
the three enclosed side bottoms, on the inside of the "tent" sidewalls.
To balance the load on the shelves, and for support, I put them staggered on
each shelf so that the are are gathered alternately on one short end to one long
side in tower stacks of 3 pkgs only to each shelf. NOT centered on either the
long side or short side.
I'm not 100% happy with this set up, and am not sure how to adjust. I could get
two more shelving units and put them 4 deep, as the that would give me the
closest matching length of 56 inches. But that takes up a lot of room, takes
time to build and adds level challenges on the uneven ( very slightly sloped v
shaped floor with 1/4 in groove, for the "Drainage' channel the runs into the
out door sump collecting tank, decommissioned for the winter, bottom cement
base. Or I could take every thing off move them to two parallel units and halve
the planks per shelf to about 15, which would be aprox. 52.5 lbs per shelf.
I'm trying to keep them from warping in the only space currently available. Or
from damaging the shelf by bow it under it's weight as the stacks end about a
foot from the end of the second unit. Recall that these stack are uniform in
shape but have staggered placements by each shelf. It's very dry in my outdoor
store room, I've never had any critter water issues despite the leaky deck, and
partial out door exposure the "tent". I've been storing many things, including
clothes, books, magazines, in and out of cardboard boxes. I seen only a bit of
cobwebs in the corners, some leaves and dirt on the floor, but otherwise just a
normal really good store room result. No evidence of mice at all. yes I clean
it and reorganize it yearly.
I want to use them in my 3 car Garage attic, as flooring for a storage room in
the long corridor that I have up there between the sloping edges of the roof. I
don’t really care what they look like or that they might smell smokey. The
garage has heated floors, and had drywall put up, taped, mudded and some sanding
done. The attic is unheated with just a plywood roof under the soon to be
replaced with something else cedar shakes. There is currently blown in
insulation but I’m wanting to change it to make it into a storage area.
Suggestions as what to use and how to do this? I was thinking to pre-drill
holes in the laminate and screw each piece onto the joists as I lay them down
perpendicular. How do I determine how much weight the joists can bear? I
thought that a row of shelving down each outer edge might be ok, but can I also
put one down the center? Is there a formula to use to tell? I can’t
currently measure the garage attic. As the tall ladder is not available right
now, and I need it to get in.
Where do I go to get some kind of a stairway (system ?), to it? Book
suggestions, or trustworthy Reno Co.s in the Calgary Area would be very much
I value any input or suggestions that would help me successfully pull this
project off to completion. Money is not currently very available for this, and
I do not have enough storage space, so I also want to use the house attic but do
not want this flooring in the house attic. I’m 5 ft 4 so I fit easily upright
in the attics. I’m somewhat handy, but always want an experienced lead to
guide me and give me the regulations and suggestions to do things as close to
the Mike Holmes way, as possible. I hope to do this later next spring, before
it gets too hot up there. I also suspect I need more ventilation and wouldn’t
mind making the area subject to less extreme temp fluctuations if possible.
In an other thread a comment was made how these products are often shipped
overseas and stored on the journey on docks, ships, in ware-houses etc, with
little concern for humidity and extreme temp changes. So for my purposes I
think they should work well enough in the garage attic.