The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the port at
the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be able to
keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to turn it
on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times what
The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions. I am
sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.
Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your average
shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy a DC
too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.
Actually my shop vac has been enclosed in a sound proof cabinet. Lined
it with Carpet that I picked up, and chambers to redirect the air. it's
quiet. I have blast gates on all the machines. I open the blast gate and
it turns the vac on.
I might have to buy a HF electric winch to lower it to the basement.
roll it down the stairs (prepared with planks) and use the winch to
control it's decent....
Was looking at the 30" it has a lower end fence, the 36" might be the
way to go for me.
Think I'll take a trip this weekend...
No I was looking at
While I did look at the sawstop site, I am probably buying from my local
Woodcraft, or Amazon
If you are serious about updating your saw as well as your D/C
system on a per tool basis, consider also updating the electrical
system for the S/S and D/C as follows:
Install a magnetic motor starter for the S/S that has under voltage
protection as well as an auxiliary control contact for the D/C.
Install a magnetic motor starter for the D/C along with a separate
"start/stop" push button station for the D/C as well as a "start/stop"
push button station for the S/S.
Interlock the P/B stations as well as the motor starters so that
when you start the S/S, the D/C is also automatically started.
When you stop the S/S, the D/C is also automatically stopped.
All other equipment that uses the D/C, uses the "start/stop"
push button station for the D/C.
As time passes and funds become available, other
equipment (Jointer, router, planer, etc) can have their
motor starters upgraded to magnetic starters.
Next thing you know, your done.
Good info, but like I was telling Leon, my vac does a pretty good job of
picking up the dust. I have it hooked to a Thien separator and every
tools has a blast gate. I have a low voltage relay so each gate when
opened will turn the system on. I want a DC but have not really needed
it, except for the TS.. and maybe the bandsaw.
I like what you have laid out, I'll save that info for when I do get the
The only thing that gets a little trickey are the motor overload
especially the S/S and the D/C.
If the motors have internal overload relays, you go one way,
if the use external overload relays, you go another.
External overloads are preferred for low voltage systems
I did not cut my fingers off, but last Thanksgiving I had a run in with
my table saw. It abraded my index finger, and cut the flesh half off of
my ring finger. They stitched the end back on.
Point being it has been nearly six months and while I can use all of my
fingers, I can not put pressure on the end of the finger. That means
while I can use my table saw, any thing (hand sanding, car waxing, etc.)
where you put pressure on your finger tips is difficult, and if enough
It may be a long time be for he can do normal things with his fingers.
Many years ago I cut the end off my middle finger (left hand,
thankfully) with a circular saw. I was in a hurry and pissed off, and
was adjusting the saw while yelling at my employees. My hand slipped,
and I ran my finger across the spinning blade. It was a cold day, and
the aluminum pieces don't work as well as they should outside, so the
guard didn't fully close.
Went to the doctor, and he clipped off the very end of the bone on my
finger with a pair of small dykes since the blade splintered the bone
and that made him afraid of infection. Put a couple of stitches on
the end of my finger after pulling it shut like a sausage. It is
slanted and a tiny bit shorter, but otherwise grew back fine.
I'll bet that finger was sensitive for a few years. REALLY sensitive
at first, then gradually it tapered off.
It gets better...
On 4/10/2013 2:25 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I had something similar.. I had a model airplane motor... a .60 size
motor chop the tip of finger pretty badly. It looked like a cigarette
load had blown it apart. Broke the bone at the tip and they said it was
too chopped up to stitch so they just folded it back together it took a
long time to heal then longer for feeling like you and Leon have
described real sensitive, but not real feeling. now it's fine but still
a little dead in the feeling..
Been to that movie, have the scar on the back of my middle
finger of my right hand to prove it and that was over 60 years ago.
By chance, that wasn't an Olsen & Rice 0.60 was it?
Nope, SuperTigre 60... It was re-worked with a hemi head, and I was
going to the nationals the next week, so I was breaking it in.. since it
had just come back from the guy that built it for stunt. Still remember
it like it was yesterday. I still wound up going to the nationals with
my finger all wrapped up.
RC, huh? Me too, still occasionally.
TS got my thumb long, long ago, while cutting alternating between 1x and 2x
stock and not lowering the blade. I reached across the blade to hold the
tail of the stock down, without lifting my hand high enough. It only cut
down almost to the bone. I was lucky to get a warning without losing my
thumb, like some here.
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