I needed a straighter cut from my cheap Japanese-style pullsaw, and in less time than it would have taken to drive to the local woodworking store, I did a modification. It works extremely well, vast improvement, etc. The front 3 screws have to pass through the blade and you aren't going to be able to drill through it easily. I used a reinforced cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. The handle is made from 2 pieces of 3/8" ash.
to anneal a spot by chucking up a nail in a drill and spinning the head where you are going to make the hole, the friction will bring that spot to a red heat rather fast. Then you can drill.
Think warm fuzzy, not gloat.
JOAT In the rough is just enough.
Yeah! That's what I meant.
Thanks. I would've much preferred drilling the hole.
Japanese saw was that it didn't NEED a ridgid spine, because it keeps itself straight as you pull it. Also, don't you use the other (ripping) side of the saw? (Assuming that's a Ryoba-style blade...) That said, I have a Dozuki "Z" saw with a ridgid metal spine up part of the back of the blade, and it makes a VERY fine crosscut. But so does my Ryoba (two-sided, non-ridgid) saw. I've found the straightness of cuts with both saws depends a lot on technique, which I'm still practicing... Thanks for sharing your pictures, Andy
I don't understand. Why take a two sided saw blade - or for ripping, one for cross cutting, and make it into a japanese version of a back saw? The whole reason for no spine on that saw is so that you can rip down a board. The wood "spine" prevents that.
Am I missing something?
charlie b
ash.http://www.edswoods.com/appendix.html>> One trick for putting holes through hardened material like that saw is
Another trick I got from a machinist is when he needs to drill sokmething tough like that sawblade or stainless steel . . he uses a carbide masonry bit.
nahmie
I'm aware that there are a few pull-backsaws on the market, but as I said im my original post, it was a rough-and ready solution. Here I was in my shop needing to make the cut and the saw wasn't cooperating, having that "bend point" where the blade meets the handle. I have several of those blades laying around which I resharpen and modify in other ways, they're good to have on hand, costing only about 12.00 apiece. Sometimes, "unofficial" tools work out best. And when they're completely worn out, they're great for flipping Japanese delicacies on the hibachi...:)
ash.http://www.edswoods.com/appendix.html>> > One trick for putting holes through hardened material like that saw is
I found that the bit wandered a lot and I didn't want to try punching the spot first, so I made the hole with a carbide grinding bit in a die grinder - softened the steel and drilled the hole at the same time. But if you try this, make sure to clamp the blade down. A friend of mine had to get 15 stitches in his thumb not long ago from trying to drill a hole in a metal switch plate in a drill press.
I've often wondered, when you first begin to sense that a cut is going awry, isn't it too late?
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