Sandblast wood etching

well, what process are you talking about? i can cut freehand maybe 1/8" details in contact paper and that's pretty cheap.

if you're talking about photoetching, you need the special films, you can use the sun for exposure although a UV light is recommended, a high pressure hose for washing out the exposed portions of the film. you then need the compressor and either a pressure pot or a grit recirculating blasting box (for that you need a larger compressor).

you can get halftones with photoresist, which is good enough resolution to get recognizable b/w pictures out of.

you might be able to get started doing this for $750 for everything.

see

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for a good example pictures of the process.

you can look over

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which is one of the major producers of photoetching films.

you can use etching cream through photoresist too, although abrasive is more common. you don't have to worry that the carrier of the cream won't also dissolve your resist. they also have photoresist that you can put on silk, use glass paint, and after firing in a kiln, you can basically do tshirt silkscreening onto glass blanks.

both. when it has to be detailed, there's not an easy way to cut a resist by hand (interior dots, for example), or you're doing more than one, then photoresist is the way to go. for broad kind of blasting, i cut it by hand. for example,

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2 different cut by hand masks, and 5 trips through the kiln, to produce.

your talk about consistent blasts is also misguided. when you get good with a blaster, you can do broad expanses at a constant depth using a blaster. it just takes practice, and it doesn't come out well until you do get good.

regards, charlie

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charlie
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Tue, Dec 11, 2007, 1:53pm (EST-2) snipped-for-privacy@nospam.stratus.com (charlie) elnlightens: well, what process are you talking about? your talk about consistent blasts is also misguided. when you get good with a blaster, you can do broad expanses at a constant depth using a blaster. it just takes practice, and it doesn't come out well until you do get good.

Ah, details, I didn't give enough details. I hate it when that happense.

Actually I meant the blasting equipment to do that, when I was sking about how expensive it was.

And when I was talking consistency in depth I was meaning in wood, because you can get a soft spot, or especially hard spot, so I don't see a consistent depth. Close, yes, consistent, as would be metal, I don't see it, not with wood, or at least pine,cedar, and so on.

I don't expect to do any of it, but always interesting to learn something new. It does give me a bit of inspiration. LOL.

JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them.

- Picasso

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J T

starting price for a compressor that you'd want to use for blasting: 500 cabinet: anywhere from free to 200. i built mine from plans at

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for about 50 in materials. the harbor freight one is ok at around 100, but needs to be caulked well to work ok. some people make theirs out of a very large tupperware tub for cheap, but that's ok for small things. pressure pot: harbor freight 100 dust extraction: large shopvac to small dust extractor: 100-300. get .5 micron or less (hepa) filters if you value your lungs. you're only issued with 2.

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charlie

Wed, Dec 12, 2007, 12:21pm (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Chrisgiraffe) doth dreameth thusly but because it sidetracked the conversation.

Wow, you are really new here aren't you? Yeah, that's never happened here before. Right gang? Bet you're young too. LMAO

JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them.

- Picasso

Reply to
J T

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