I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said it
contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
Light rust can be removed with WD40 and a little scrubbing with a Scotch
Empire also makes a chemical that restores the finish and one that protects
the finish. This can be found at better wood working supply stores.
Someone set a cold bottle of water on a table saw! OH THE HORROR~! Nothing
but wood touches my saw table, I won't even let my wife lean her hand on it!
You know what body oils do to metal?
I went out one day to find a light coat of rust on the table. I couldn't
figure out what happened, I used the WD40 and the scotch brite. Now I keep
it covered. To this day I still have no idea what happened. The shop is
vulnerable to humitidity but I keep a wax coat on the saw. This happened in
the winter and the only thing that I can think is that the propane heater
had soemthing to do with it.
The Scotchbrite works great under a ROS, if you're not crazy with the
I've tried the Top Saver "system", and while I really like Top Saver
as a table lube, for rust removal, WD-40 and the Scotchbrite worked
just as well for me, for a lot less money.
In addition to the Scotchbrite suggestion, if it's a really tough job, use
SandFlex blocks along with the WD40 or a rust remover.
The medium SandFlex for the tougher spots, and the fine for light rust and
for a finish before TopCote'ing it.
As the active ingredient of vinegar is acetic acid, it is no wonder that
whatever you bought smells like acid. Actually, it smells like acetic acid.
Most of the real vigorous acids either have no smell or destroy your sense
Most people, though, suggest WD40 and elbow grease.
most naval Jelly's contain phosporic acid and is just as nasty as
hydrochloric(muriatic), and not as bad as nitric. beleave it or not
what works also is straight coca-cola. The carbolic acid is mild but
it does work. A good cleaning afterwords and a light coat of oil after
words with WD-40. if you don't like the film WD leaves on the surface
try to use a light oil.
> You obviously don't use the spray cans. You can hear there's some left,
> but there's no more propellant! lol
Isn't that why they offer hand powered sprayers.
Now refilling the sprayer from a gallon can is another matter.
SFWIW, I use WD40 and 150 grit on a ROS along with paper towels to clean
off the surface rust.
Gets the job done, but still leaves the stains.
first use a razor blade to get off any crusty rust. then take a scrub
at it with barkeeper's friend cleanser. then wash it well with paint
thinner and give it a coat of paste wax.
mostly, though, just use the damn thing regularly. it's a tool....
For periodic light rust removal, I use 30 micron (not 30 grit) paper
on a 5" RA.
For heavy rust, I would recommend Empire products. When a number of
my machines were submerged by Katrina, I called Empire and they sent
me a care package (free of charge, nice people).
The Empire stuff got all the rust, however, did not remove the
staining from rust pitting. I don't think anything short of a regrind
will get that.
My shop soaked in 4' of salt water for two weeks after Katrina (7' was the
high water mark). The big machines - cabinet saw, jointer, lathe, thickness
planer etc. went out to the curb for trash pickup. Also all hand held
electrical tools. You should see what salt water does to cast iron.
When I was able to get back into New Orleans, two months after the storm the
bits, chisels, pliers, screw drivers, sockets, etc. were soaked in mineral
oil + 20 wt. cheap oil for a few weeks. That and a wire brush restored them
to a useful, if not pretty, condition.
For some perverse reason I saved my vintage Powermatic bandsaw. I am now
starting the restoration of this saw. The cast iron table and trunions are
presently soaking in Marvel Mystery oil. A high pressure water blaster took
off the peeling paint on the base.
Before I hauled my Jet cabinet saw to the curb I played with WD 40 and a
cabinet scraper. It works. When I called Jet after the storm to ask about
first aid for my saw and shaper they recommended a WD 40 soak on everything.
They were nice people and very helpful. They told me that WD 40 is a mill.
spec. for "water displacement formula #40". I haven't verified that, but it
works for me. I keep a can at the ready.
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 19:37:00 -0500, "Paul Gilbert"
I've seen it. Mine sat for three weeks after being submerged before I
could get to Biloxi to deal with them. Much of what was submerged
went to the street.
I had a particular Unisaw that had both sentimental value and
potential collectors value, and that is the machine I worked to
restore. It has endured a complete dissassembly, derust, repaint and
rebuild. Table will never have that fresh grind sheen, but is clean,
functional and original, which was important to me. Took the motor
apart, flushed it, baked it, replaced bearings, capacitors and
centrigifugal switch and it kicked on.
What I did would not be worth the effort (time and money spent) for
most machines, but as mentioned, this one had value to me.
WD 40 does stand for Water Displacement. :-) It was the 40th version
of the formula.
Whenever I need to clean the top of the TS I use a little WD 40 and a
greenie (sctoch brite pad) under my ro sander. Wipe it down with
paper towels and then some Johnsons paste wax to finish it out.
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