Rust on a morse taper

I decided to change the center on my lathe and (finally) after punching the old one out, I see that there was rust on the connection.

What's the proper method for cleaning rust off a morse taper?

All help much appreciated.

Mike

Reply to
Michael
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Reply to
DerbyDad03

That so bad of a visual pun you will be punished, you shall relieve the titan push the stone ball up hill. ( If I could remember the name maybe it would work)

Reply to
Markem

:-)

But did you translate it?

I really was trying to help.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

My solution to cleaning up all rusty tools is electrolysis... In the past few years I've "inherited" a bunch of old tools from friends, co-workers and family. Brands include Starrett, Stanley, Millers Falls, etc. I just kept putting them in a pile up until about 6 - 8 weeks ago... then I set up my electrolysis station.

My electrolysis set up is simple, and cheap... I use a plastic waste paper basket (borrowed from the laundry room), cans for sacrificial anodes (e.g., baked bean cans), jumpers, and an inexpensive 3 AMP 12 volt "dumb" power supply. Most recent battery chargers will not work as they think the "battery" is bad and shut off... if yours say "automatic," "computerized," or something similar it's a smart charger.

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with these cables
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In the basket goes water and Arm & Hammer washing soda (in the laundry soap section at the super market). I use 3M scrub pads and a brass "toothbrush" to remove the crud.

I remove both ends of the cans, cut them near the label glue line, flatten them out and put a hem on one end that is used to hang the can over the edge of the basket. Put the outside of the can towards the middle of the basket/inside of can towards the side of the basket. I use 2 cans connected by a jumper... one on the side and one on the end of the basket to increase the surface area.

The advantage of electrolysis over abrasives is you don't remove good metal. It is gentle too... laundry soap and water... versus acid (which is part of most chemical rust removers).

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

If it's just a little staining, rub with metal polish; I like to keep a few rags and some Fuller Brush Co polish under the sink. If you can hold the gizmo in a vise, a string dipped in polish, wrapped around, is easy to get rounds shiny.

As others have mentioined, perhaps vinegar would work.

Reply to
whit3rd

The best rust remover that I have ever found and used is Evapo-Rust ER004. This stuff works. It's fast and non-toxic with no bad fumes. In the case of the taper - wrap it in a paper towel, soak the towel with the remover, squeeze out any air pockets for good contact and wait about 15 minutes. Wash the taper off with water and shine it up with scotch-brite - job done.

I buy the 3.5 gallon pail with a screen basket insert, but they sell smaller quantities. Probably the cheapest place to buy is

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although I purchase from Amazon.

Reply to
Jerry Osage

Thanks, John! I'd really like to learn to do this someday. I have a few hand planes that I bought for next to nothing. But I just need to get going on turning a couple of things for a project for now.

Reply to
Michael

I'll go buy some today and see how it works. Appreciated!

Reply to
Michael

I know two letters of morse code, ... (s) --- (o).

Reply to
Markem

It sucks when the situation is so bad that you don't have time to follow that with ...

Reply to
DerbyDad03

:)

Reply to
Markem

PERHAPS VINEGAR WOULD WORK.

Reply to
Bob_S

Interesting. I've always considered removers with phosphoric acid, like RustFree, to be the most efficient and fastest removers. But phosphoric acid is corrosive, so a lot more care must be taken.

This Evapo-Rust is non-corrosive and uses a different chemical process to basically do the same this that phosphoric acid does-- change the chemical bond of rust to turn into something other than rust.

I will try this product next time I need to do rust removal and see if it works as well as RustFree.

Reply to
-MIKE-

If it is a light surface rust (i.e. no pitting), some 1000 grit emory paper is sufficient.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

emory cloth and water then dry completely and do again if needed

then some mineral oil

if it has pits consider a new one

Reply to
Electric Comet

0000 Steel wool on the male end, and this tool for the female end.

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Reply to
Leon

nice technique

maybe not that simple but i guess once you have it setup it is simple to apply the technique to other tools

Reply to
Electric Comet

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