I decided to change the center on my lathe and (finally) after punching the old one out, I see that there was rust on the connection.
What's the proper method for cleaning rust off a morse taper?
All help much appreciated.
My solution to cleaning up all rusty tools is electrolysis... In the past
few years I've "inherited" a bunch of old tools from friends, co-workers and
family. Brands include Starrett, Stanley, Millers Falls, etc. I just kept
putting them in a pile up until about 6 - 8 weeks ago... then I set up my
My electrolysis set up is simple, and cheap... I use a plastic waste paper
basket (borrowed from the laundry room), cans for sacrificial anodes (e.g.,
baked bean cans), jumpers, and an inexpensive 3 AMP 12 volt "dumb" power
supply. Most recent battery chargers will not work as they think the
"battery" is bad and shut off... if yours say "automatic," "computerized,"
or something similar it's a smart charger.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
with these cables
(Amazon.com product link shortened).
In the basket goes water and Arm & Hammer washing soda (in the laundry soap
section at the super market). I use 3M scrub pads and a brass "toothbrush"
to remove the crud.
I remove both ends of the cans, cut them near the label glue line, flatten
them out and put a hem on one end that is used to hang the can over the edge
of the basket. Put the outside of the can towards the middle of the
basket/inside of can towards the side of the basket. I use 2 cans connected
by a jumper... one on the side and one on the end of the basket to increase
the surface area.
The advantage of electrolysis over abrasives is you don't remove good metal.
It is gentle too... laundry soap and water... versus acid (which is part of
most chemical rust removers).
On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 5:46:00 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
If it's just a little staining, rub with metal polish; I like to keep a few
rags and some Fuller Brush Co polish under the sink. If you can
hold the gizmo in a vise, a string dipped in polish, wrapped around,
is easy to get rounds shiny.
As others have mentioined, perhaps vinegar would work.
The best rust remover that I have ever found and used is Evapo-Rust ER004.
This stuff works. It's fast and non-toxic with no bad fumes. In the case of
the taper - wrap it in a paper towel, soak the towel with the remover,
squeeze out any air pockets for good contact and wait about 15 minutes. Wash
the taper off with water and shine it up with scotch-brite - job done.
I buy the 3.5 gallon pail with a screen basket insert, but they sell smaller
quantities. Probably the cheapest place to buy is www.advanceautoparts.com/
although I purchase from Amazon.
Interesting. I've always considered removers with phosphoric acid, like
RustFree, to be the most efficient and fastest removers. But phosphoric
acid is corrosive, so a lot more care must be taken.
This Evapo-Rust is non-corrosive and uses a different chemical process
to basically do the same this that phosphoric acid does-- change the
chemical bond of rust to turn into something other than rust.
I will try this product next time I need to do rust removal and see if
it works as well as RustFree.
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