Rust on a morse taper

I decided to change the center on my lathe and (finally) after punching the old one out, I see that there was rust on the connection.
What's the proper method for cleaning rust off a morse taper?
All help much appreciated.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 8:46:00 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

.--. . .-. .... .- .--. ... / ...- .. -. . --. .- .-. / .-- --- ..- .-.. -.. / .-- --- .-. -.- .-.-.-
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 19:33:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

That so bad of a visual pun you will be punished, you shall relieve the titan push the stone ball up hill. ( If I could remember the name maybe it would work)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 10:39:03 PM UTC-4, Markem wrote:

:-)
But did you translate it?
I really was trying to help.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 19:41:15 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

I know two letters of morse code, ... (s) --- (o).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sunday, July 1, 2018 at 10:42:59 AM UTC-4, Markem wrote:

It sucks when the situation is so bad that you don't have time to follow that with ...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 1 Jul 2018 15:46:57 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

:)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

PERHAPS VINEGAR WOULD WORK.
--


Bob S.


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Michael" wrote in message

My solution to cleaning up all rusty tools is electrolysis... In the past few years I've "inherited" a bunch of old tools from friends, co-workers and family. Brands include Starrett, Stanley, Millers Falls, etc. I just kept putting them in a pile up until about 6 - 8 weeks ago... then I set up my electrolysis station.
My electrolysis set up is simple, and cheap... I use a plastic waste paper basket (borrowed from the laundry room), cans for sacrificial anodes (e.g., baked bean cans), jumpers, and an inexpensive 3 AMP 12 volt "dumb" power supply. Most recent battery chargers will not work as they think the "battery" is bad and shut off... if yours say "automatic," "computerized," or something similar it's a smart charger.
(Amazon.com product link shortened) with these cables (Amazon.com product link shortened).
In the basket goes water and Arm & Hammer washing soda (in the laundry soap section at the super market). I use 3M scrub pads and a brass "toothbrush" to remove the crud.
I remove both ends of the cans, cut them near the label glue line, flatten them out and put a hem on one end that is used to hang the can over the edge of the basket. Put the outside of the can towards the middle of the basket/inside of can towards the side of the basket. I use 2 cans connected by a jumper... one on the side and one on the end of the basket to increase the surface area.
The advantage of electrolysis over abrasives is you don't remove good metal. It is gentle too... laundry soap and water... versus acid (which is part of most chemical rust removers).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 9:42:16 PM UTC-5, John Grossbohlin wrote:

Thanks, John! I'd really like to learn to do this someday. I have a few hand planes that I bought for next to nothing. But I just need to get going on turning a couple of things for a project for now.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 22:42:06 snipped-for-privacy@nospam.earthlink.net wrote:

nice technique
maybe not that simple but i guess once you have it setup it is simple to apply the technique to other tools
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 5:46:00 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

If it's just a little staining, rub with metal polish; I like to keep a few rags and some Fuller Brush Co polish under the sink. If you can hold the gizmo in a vise, a string dipped in polish, wrapped around, is easy to get rounds shiny.
As others have mentioined, perhaps vinegar would work.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 17:45:57 -0700 (PDT), Michael

The best rust remover that I have ever found and used is Evapo-Rust ER004. This stuff works. It's fast and non-toxic with no bad fumes. In the case of the taper - wrap it in a paper towel, soak the towel with the remover, squeeze out any air pockets for good contact and wait about 15 minutes. Wash the taper off with water and shine it up with scotch-brite - job done.
I buy the 3.5 gallon pail with a screen basket insert, but they sell smaller quantities. Probably the cheapest place to buy is www.advanceautoparts.com/ although I purchase from Amazon.
--
Jerry O.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sunday, July 1, 2018 at 1:57:24 AM UTC-5, Jerry Osage wrote:

I'll go buy some today and see how it works. Appreciated!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/1/18 1:57 AM, Jerry Osage wrote:

Interesting. I've always considered removers with phosphoric acid, like RustFree, to be the most efficient and fastest removers. But phosphoric acid is corrosive, so a lot more care must be taken.
This Evapo-Rust is non-corrosive and uses a different chemical process to basically do the same this that phosphoric acid does-- change the chemical bond of rust to turn into something other than rust.
I will try this product next time I need to do rust removal and see if it works as well as RustFree.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If it is a light surface rust (i.e. no pitting), some 1000 grit emory paper is sufficient.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 17:45:57 -0700 (PDT)

emory cloth and water then dry completely and do again if needed
then some mineral oil
if it has pits consider a new one
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 6/30/2018 7:45 PM, Michael wrote:

0000 Steel wool on the male end, and this tool for the female end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcbntC8JJiU

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.