A buttefly jewelry box projec I have been working on since before
christmas keeps getting ruined while routing different pieces. I am
attempting to pattern route with a 2 flute carbide top bearing bit.
I've used both a Porter Cable that I find still to be sharp (judging
from digs in fingernail and the nice shavings) and a brand new Amanaa
When I round the top of the wing and come along the side where the edge
grain is at it's shortest, the bit rips about 1/2 off the side, thus
ruining the piece completely.
I had initially posted about this when I made my pine prototype and was
assured the harder purpleheart I am working would hold up. I am
however, finding the opposite to be true. The Purpleheart is worse than
the pine and in that 80% of the time the edge grain tears off.
Besides using a drum sander to do this part of the project, what other
router techniques should I use? I have begun to consider gluing a piece
of wood under that would run with end grain perpendicular to the edge
grain to help support it.
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:20:25 +0000, A Womack wrote:
I dont' understand fully what you are doing, however, never to be one
without an opinion, here goes...
1. Change direction of travel. It almost sounds as though your bit is
peeling away the wood. Try to visualize how the bit spins, where and how
the flutes attack the wood.
2. If possible, slow down the motor as well as the speed you are moving
the router across the material.
3. Use a router table for better control.
4. For problem spots, start your rout from the end and work toward the
5. Use a smaller bit.
Indeed, this is exactly what happens. The edge grain tears away at the
top of the cut as I am coming down around the edge of the wing. The Top
of the wing is fine, it is where the edge grain get's short <2" where
the tearing off of the edge occurs.
Had not considered this, might be a good reason to buy a speed control.
Currently using one with a starting point. Generally keeps the work
I've had trouble maintaining control when back routing. The work is
grabbed in one of the wings and yanked into the bit, this also runs the
I'm working now on my 9 wing from prototypes and a couple of layers that
I did OK at. I think I might try the smaller bit as it makes sense to
me that the leverage would be less, the ability to control it for back
routing would be good and a top bearing bit will not be a problem with
Sounds like you can't use a backer board which would probably eliminate the
tearout. You might have to do a climb cut, but be careful it's not a very
safe technique. I'd also look at Pat Warner's web site, he probably has
some useful info.
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"A Womack" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
email@example.com (bstrawse) wrote in
I used my jigsaw to get close, say no more than 3/8" away anywhere
around the pattern. Today I picked up a smaller pattern following bit,
1/4" variety. I think I can more easily climb routing with this bit to
alleviate the tear off. I will also try hot gluing a piece of scrap at
a 90 degree angle to the edge grain to give it some more support.
If that doesn't work I bought a 3/16" bandsaw blade today to try.
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