Router bit trouble / question

A left handed tool. More on spirals at the

Matt - can you post a link to the bits? Maybe from the manufacturer or dealer? I'm curious to see what type of spiral you bought.

For example, I have some of these:

Sounds like a bit for a die grinder, not a router. Eight flutes?

--

I've never seen a carbide spiral bit that had a cutter larger than the shank. They might be high speed steel, and they might be getting dull. Pine is notorious for building up pitch on cutters, too, so make sure you're cleaning the flutes, regularly.

Updated information I looked at the 1/2" when I described the 3 of them, and I was wrong

of the 3 bits - all 1/4" shank

the other two I bought at the TO wood show last Feb from one of the bit sellers

I have since tried the 3/8" in my plunge router on both pine and oak and it works like I recall the 1/2" bit working - great - clean sharp edges at the top of the wood and a flat clean bottom.

Lessons learned:

- these two funky bits are only for plunge use

- they are not likely carbide

- I'm not dead yet - I learned something today (my daily goal)

I have posted pictures of them at

Thanks for the tips.

As I just got into this forum, I cannot see what else was stated herein. = Please bear with me.

Looks like you got into UP-spiral and DOWN-spiral bits. =20 Up-spiral works perfectly in or out of a table because the chips are = always pulled out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there = is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through = the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a = clean entrance. =20 If you ever use a down-spiral when not cutting through you will get a = small fire and the wood will get burned.=20

Insofar as carbide is concerned; if you cannot easily discern where the = steel leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid carbide. = Freud makes such bits. =20

Pass this on to whoever might be interested.

--=20

PDQ

Yup. That's why I never could figure out why I would want one.

--=20

PDQ

-- =20 "Leonard Lopez" wrote in message = news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de... | You might add that solid carbide bits are very brittle. |=20 | PDQ wrote: | > As I just got into this forum, I cannot see what else was stated = herein. Please bear with me. | >=20 | > Looks like you got into UP-spiral and DOWN-spiral bits. | > =20 | > Up-spiral works perfectly in or out of a table because the chips are = always pulled out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there = is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through = the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a = clean entrance. | > =20 | > If you ever use a down-spiral when not cutting through you will get = a small fire and the wood will get burned.=20 | >=20 | > Insofar as carbide is concerned; if you cannot easily discern where = the steel leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid = carbide. Freud makes such bits. =20 | >=20 | > Pass this on to whoever might be interested. | >=20 |

bear with me.

sure you can:

the wood will get burned.

bullshit.

bear with me.

out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a clean entrance.

and the wood will get burned.

leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid carbide. Freud makes such bits.

That's the only way I could find them in 1/8". And only iwth 1/4" shank