A simple search in google's image of "router table" (20 pages) shows a lot
router tables have closed router door (lot of very basic assembly are open,
but I am talking about "nicer" ones with drawers, etc). I wonder how come
many have closed area where router would shed wood into confined area? I am
planning to build a router table and it would have an opening in the front
(have to, since need access to the speed switch), angled slope to roll the
wood shed down to the floor (yeah, on my shoes).
I thought about vacuum and openings to the side, but couldn't think of a
good design with that. I want drawers for bits.
What you have? Pictures? Recommend websites?
Chuck wrote: What you have? Pictures? Recommend websites?
Me have "closed-design".
Allows greater suction for dust evacuation through 2.5 inch dust port
in the back. So most of the make-up air is brought through the bit
opening, helping to reduce the dust on the tabletop. Built according to
Jointech plans. Tom
But MY wall is full of clamps :-).
I did make a saw extension router table. Works fine for me, but I'm a
hobbyist, not a professional. Most router tables are way too small.
And if they aren't they take a lot more room than I've got in my 12' x
I can't think of a single reason to have an open cabinet. Mine has two
doors, easy access to the router when needed, easy dust collection. I've
not hooked the DC to it yet, but I use a shop vac on the fence and just
shovel out the space around the router once every few weeks. My switch is
external mounted for ease of use and safety. Once I do get around to hooking
up the DC, I may have to allow more in, but that is suject to trial first.
The doors are not gasketed, the opening around the bit is open, and there is
a hold I made for the cord to the switched receptical.
I have the Benchdog table. Drawers and door. Works for me.
When I did few samples (about 4 or 5 little raised panel doors), I have a
deep shed behind the temp table (all open, just four legs). It's about
shoes height. You telling me it doesn't happen often to you? Am I making a
lot use of it (almost at least 3 times a week)?
A well-designed router table will include dust extraction from below
and above. The air movement will also help keep the motor cool. The
door in front helps with the dust collection and reduces the noise.
My router table has a switch on the outside in front, where it has
easy access. Norm has a very good design, including lots of drawer
space for router bits and router accesories.
I know about adding a switch on the front, I am planning to do it anyway.
The issue (or question) for me is should the router area be closed?
To me, it appears that open router area seems best due more open air to
cool the motor. But you saying having two vac (one on the fence and another
in the closed router area) help circulate the air better (meaning the
incoming air would be from the gaps around the doors?)?
Maybe I am missing the information about this. Pat Warner website didn't
explain this? I don't mind doing this, but I need to understand the reason.
Please explain to me and thank you!
Keep in mind that I am still using a shop vac, so one hose for the top of
the fence. Some day when I have better shop, then will consider a dust
Is the sole propose for closed area router area is for dust collection?
A shop vac has limited value. The closed area reduces noise and
provides improved dust collection. Most doors will have a few
breather holes to allow for the air exchange. In your case, I'd put
off building an enclosed router table until you purchase a DC. You
can "go simple" with a sheet of 3/4" ply with a hole in the middle for
the router bits.
I'll disagree with that.
Shop Vacs work GREAT with router tables if the holes are in the right
place. Design the box so the air enters through no more than (2) 1"
holes, with a second 1 to 1-1/2" connection behind the fence.
I have a DC and a SV, and the SV is better with routers, in and out of
tables, plate joiners, hand held sanders, etc... The DC kicks ass
with jointers, planers, the band saw, etc... The DC would also work
well with the router table if sufficient intake air is available. IN
other words, make more vent holes when you get a DC.
Think high speed, lower volume air with the vac, lower speed, much
higher volume air with a DC.
Spend $20 on a an "Auto Switch" at Sears, and the vac will start with
the tool and run for a few seconds after the tool stops to clear the
Sat, May 28, 2005, 6:17pm (EDT+4) email@example.com (CNT)
A simple search in google's <snip>
Ah, someone that's googled. But, you would probably have been more
ahead if you'd just done a regular google. However.
I'm not back, but saw this thread while posting for some input.
I've been told I think differently from most other people. Possibly. I
do know I get somewhat puzzled when I read posts like this. Unless
you're planning on making plans, and selling them, I wouldn't worry so
much about it if I was you. Just make something that satisfies your
wants, and needs, and esthetically pleases you.
My router table, about the Mk III model, is basic. The original
was put together out of scrap 2X4s, and a chunk of plywood for the top,
put together mostly with glue (Titebond II - gotta get some stock in
that company), maybe a nail or two, and bolts to bolt the whole thing
down. That didn't meet my needs, so was torn apart - as much as
possible, Titebond really holds - and as much as I could salvage, plus
some more scrap wood, made the second version. Repeat, for the next
version. Can't recall if I redid it again, or not. Still basically the
same. The top has about a 2" hole where the bit goes thru. I took
apart an earlier router, and absolutely no sawdust in it. I think you'd
have to have a pretty severe slant of the top, to have the chips/sawdust
slide off on it's own,. It just pushes out of the way on mine, by the
piece being worked, and I brush it off with a wide paint brush later.
If I ever need a fence on it, I'll just clamp a piece of 2X2, or 2X4,
on. It does exactly what I want, and need, it to do, and I really don't
care what anyone thinks of it's looks. If my needs for it ever change,
I will have no hesitation into remodeling it again, or tossing it, and
making another - this one might have around $2-2.50 in it - for the
Failure is ALWAYS an option.
I've got one of the open ones, but my observation is that most of the
chips go out the back of the fence, and not down the opening. The
plan I built the fence from suggested an optional vacuum port on the
back side of the fence so I made it, and it works really well.
As above, make a vacuum attachment behind the fence. Just cut a
couple of triangles that attach to the backside, and mount a piece of
1/4" ply or hardboard to the top with a hole for the vacuum. Picks up
most of the mess, and you're free to do whatever you want under the
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