Planning to build a router table to replace my current one, which is too big. I have a Rockler router top which will be used, so basically, I'm building a base. I'm avoiding the Rockler stand because I want drawers and dust collection case around the router. Seeking suggestions on builds (pictures also, if available) but nothing too complicated. I don't need a luxury style, just more practical.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Suggestion: make sure that the finished height matches your tablesaw and workbench height so that the router table can be an outfeed or extension support if you remove the fence.
Mine's big too but maybe there's an idea or two in it for you:
I second the height suggestion. I would also put the cabinet on wheels so you can arrange your workspace to fit the job you are doing.
I have my workbench and table saw on wheels. I can use the workbench as an out feed for the table saw, as a layout table when working on the saw, or have the workbench and table saw arranged for minimum movement when I am cutting many pieces. I can do the same thing with my router table. However mine is not on a bench and when I am doing intensive router work have it clamped to the table saw, with the workbench in the most convenient positions.
Yeah. My router table and miter saw are on roll-arounds (pretty much mandatory in a small shop like mine) and all are the same height. The miter saw can be removed by just pulling out two pegs so everything is interchangeable. In theory my Robland X31 is on wheels or at least it has their "mobility" accessories but, at something close to a half-ton, it isn't something I do more than once or twice a year.
John McGaw: How do you handle your small tools like grinder, vice, etc?
I have mine mounted on 2X 8 and when I need them I pull them off the shelf, put them on the work bench and clamp them down.
This method works well for every thing except my bench drill press, small band saw, and my new bench belt sander.
How do you handle these mid size items. like the Drill press?
I have a full-sized old-iron Delta drill press and it sits in a corner by the garage door. That works for most things although if I need to work on really big stuff I have to drag it out a bit. Heavy but doable as long as it isn't necessary to do it too often. (it isn't). I have a roll-around that holds a grinder and Hitachi power sharpener and a 1" belt/disk sander used mostly for sharpening. These can be swapped to the top position of the roll-around as needed. The only tool with a setup similar to yours is a
4"belt/disk sander which is mounted on a plywood "T" arrangement which can be clamped into one of the bench vises as needed. I may have more room that you though. My shop is half of a 2-car garage I walled off from the "real" garage. Oh, and the slot mortiser for the Robland has its own low storage roll-around and is only mounted to the machine when needed since it would make movement past the Robland difficult if it stayed in place.
My bench top band saw is mounted on a stand like this, for which I made a rolling base:
When I need more room in the shop I roll it out into the main part of the basement.
My bench sander usually gets lifted onto the bench when I need it. For real quick jobs, especially with the disk, I can kneel down and use it while its on the bottom shelf of the workbench.
My bench drill press sit in the back corner of my workbench and I slide it forward when I need to use it. Actually, it usually sit in its "use" positi on and I push it back when I need that workbench space.
Funny, I just finished a router table that has been on the to do list for a long time. I can't see how to post pictures here so I'll do my best to des cribe it.
Mine is a Kreg top and lift with a Rockler fence. I bought a kitchen base c abinet from the Habitat For Humanity Restore Store for $25, reinforced it, attached casters and mounted the top. If I need to prevent the table from m oving, I can slip scraps of 4X4 under each corner. The cabinet has three dr awers, the top one is notched to fit around the box containing the router a nd feeding the dust collector. The top drawer has wrenched for the router a nd lift and a holder for bits. The table was made to fit under my table saw outfeed for storage with the fence being stored on brackets on the side of the table.
I haven't even tried it out yet so I can't say what works and what I should have done differently. Good luck with your project!
Tom
a long time. I can't see how to post pictures here so I'll do my best to d escribe it.
cabinet from the Habitat For Humanity Restore Store for $25, reinforced it , attached casters and mounted the top. If I need to prevent the table from moving, I can slip scraps of 4X4 under each corner. The cabinet has three drawers, the top one is notched to fit around the box containing the router and feeding the dust collector. The top drawer has wrenched for the router and lift and a holder for bits. The table was made to fit under my table s aw outfeed for storage with the fence being stored on brackets on the side of the table.
ld have done differently. Good luck with your project!
This is a text only group, so instead of posting pictures, you need to post links. I use Imgur, but there are other free image-hosting sites available. Just make sure that you choose one that doesn't make your audience register before they can view your images. That's not likely to happen.
Just as an example, here's a link to one of my projects, a small kitchen island for my daughter's apartment.
Thanks Tom. I've been thinking of using a cabinet also. I've been viewing kitchen and bathroom cabinets on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace but completely forgot about HFH. There are several local ones in my area, I can check them out.
Nice work.
Nice indeed. Did you make the butcher block?
Nice, I'd not seen one of those in HF. Do you happen to have the dimensions of the top? I assume you can mount a shelf on the stretchers (which should strengthen it significantly, as well.
for a long time. I can't see how to post pictures here so I'll do my best t o describe it.
ase cabinet from the Habitat For Humanity Restore Store for $25, reinforced it, attached casters and mounted the top. If I need to prevent the table f rom moving, I can slip scraps of 4X4 under each corner. The cabinet has thr ee drawers, the top one is notched to fit around the box containing the rou ter and feeding the dust collector. The top drawer has wrenched for the rou ter and lift and a holder for bits. The table was made to fit under my tabl e saw outfeed for storage with the fence being stored on brackets on the si de of the table.
hould have done differently. Good luck with your project!
Thanks. Actually, on that project I cheated. It used to look like this.
I took the beaded paneling from the top portion, fitted it to the back of the base and trimmed it out so it became a two-sided piece. I also rebuilt the drawers, added slides, new hinges, etc.
Back to the router table...
I know you want storage in your router table so this might not work for you , but...
I have a really small shop with no room for a dedicated router table. I use d the "table saw extension" method and built a fence with a dust collection port. That's obviously not the router table fence shown below.
You'll noticed I used the words "stand *like* this".
My stand actually came with my bandsaw. It's an old 30 yo Craftsman benchto p that was sold both with and without a leg set. I hit a one day sale when th e leg set was basically free.
The HF unit is 29 1/4 x 21 1/2 at the bottom. Mine is 25 1/2 x 21 1/2, so a bit narrower across the front. That said, the top of mine in 10 x 14.
Without knowing the angle of the HF legs, it's hard to say if the top to bottom ratios are the same as mine. That's the best I can offer.
for a long time. I can't see how to post pictures here so I'll do my best t o describe it.
ase cabinet from the Habitat For Humanity Restore Store for $25, reinforced it, attached casters and mounted the top. If I need to prevent the table f rom moving, I can slip scraps of 4X4 under each corner. The cabinet has thr ee drawers, the top one is notched to fit around the box containing the rou ter and feeding the dust collector. The top drawer has wrenched for the rou ter and lift and a holder for bits. The table was made to fit under my tabl e saw outfeed for storage with the fence being stored on brackets on the si de of the table.
hould have done differently. Good luck with your project!
No, I bought the top at Lowes and cut it to size.
See my response to Hawk. That project was actually a repurposing of a 2 pie ce hutch I picked up at a consignment shop. I stopped by on the last day they were open just to see what they had left and it was sitting by the front do or, about ready to hit the dumpster.
I think I paid like $50 for it. My timing was perfect because my daughter had just moved in and really needed an island. Repurposing the hutch was a lot quicker than building from scratch.
Remember the post where I said I took my dad on the gondola up Killington and had lunch with him and my daughter? The delivery of the island was the reason I went to Vermont so I swung through MA, picked up my Dad and took him with me.
I am assuming you want it adjustable, the router that is. The size of the cabinet is totally up to you, after all YOU ARE THE CREATOR. ;-) Here is the one I built, you might find it interesting.
BTW, the Surplus Center is an excellent place to get the ACME Leadscrew. But a piece of all thread will work.
I saw this video some time ago and plan to build this exact lift when table is complete. It's a Great design.
Thanks
On 1/12/2020 9:51 PM, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote: ...
Stand Top Dimensions 18"L x 9-3/4"W (W/Adjustable Slots to Extend Width)
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