Give a good finish.
UK practice is that shapers have collets, and the ones with the shaft,
large head and separate knives are called spindle moulders. My shaper
experience has been something of a disappointment, because the edge
speed is too slow for optimum cutting. Spindle moulders use the same
rpm on a much large cutter diameter, so they're OK.
You will get more variation from other factors. Your Router / Lift
combination doesn't have to be super accurate. A slight warp in the board, a
little sawdust under it or between the fence, some flex on the tabletop or
fence, sanding, effects of humidity, etc. will negate the accuracy to
1/1000" from any tool. And, what about the rest of your project? Anything
you cut with other tools will be less accurate, and as soon as you start
So, reasonable accuracy and a well built, easy to use accessory is the key.
I use a PC690 under my table without a lift. Eye-balling, a ruler with
1/64ths graduations and most importantly, set-up pieces and test pieces,
does the trick for me. Would I like a lift? Yes, and will probably buy one
some time. But the height adjustment accuracy won't be the top priority.
Sun, Oct 24, 2004, 9:44am email@example.com (MJT) says:
<snip> most importantly, set-up pieces and test pieces, does the trick
for me. <snip>
That's about what I was thinking. I don't have a router lift, and
don't need one. But, if I ever do, I've always figured on making one
from an old car scissors jack I have sitting around.
Eagles can soar ... but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.
On 23 Oct 2004 14:19:19 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Never Enough
Because it's way too expensive for a router accessory. It puts a
regular router into a shaper's price range, without the extra power
and sturdy base.
Not to nitpick, but a 128th of an inch is only about .0008" I was
under the impression that anything closer than a 64th (.0016") was
considered extremely accurate and fine craftsmanship when it comes to
woodworking. What is it you intend to rout that needs a tolerance of
It's also important to note that there is going to be an accuracy
tolerance on the lift, and it is not going to be one thousandth. I
run a couple of $60,000 saws, and the initial tolerance is .002 for
those. No way is a router lift going to beat that for $500. You
still have to measure when you set up- it'd just be easier to fine
Just so we remain completely accurate....
My caculator says 1/128 = 0.0078 = ~ 0.008. You had an extra zero.
That's eight times less accurate than a 1/1000'th machine.
Similarly 1/64 is close to 0.016, not 0.0016, as you say.
Good point. I may be mixing up the term accuracy with the term
However, from a logical point of view it is incorrect to say a
$600,000 saw can be a $500 in everything. The $60K mama probably has
much more horsepower and a bunch of other stuff -- that's true. But
just like a hang-glider can make a sharper turn than and F-16 Figher,
a $500 saw might be able to beat a $60,000 saw at _some_ things.
I'm debating your logic _not_ whether your statement that a $60K saw
is better than a $500 one. If the router in question is much lighter
or smaller it is possible that a $500 lift on a $250 router could be
comparable to a $60K setup that is much bigger an requires more
mechanics to solve the precision/accuracy problems.
Just my, 2 cents - not trying to start a posting war.
On 24 Oct 2004 07:41:02 -0700, email@example.com (Never Enough
It could be, but it seems a little unlikely, given that the router is
not built into the lift, and the lift is not built into a table.
Also, as an FYI, the expensive industrial equipment is usually not
that much more complex mechanically, it is just much sturdier, and
less prone to losing it's adjustments if you bang it a little.
Actually, after all the "professional" feedback, this woodworker will
NOT drop money for the lift. Even if the feedback had been "it's great
you've got to get it" it would probably not have happened -- it's so
low down on the priority lists.
The real question is what kind of woodworker, I'll refrain from the
derogatory term "worddorker", would by a $250,000 router? That seems
high even for a factory floor. Is it for mouldings? Surely it does
more than route.
BTW, I am tired of reaching under my table and repeatedly adjusting
measuring, adjusting-measuring, etc. until I creep in on an accurate
Also question to the whole group, not just UA100: given all the
anti-router lift pro-shaper feedback, I'd say none of you uses a
router lift. I find that difficult to beleive. Surely there's someone
out there willing to 'fess up.
I use the Jessem MAST-R-LIFT which is the same as the Jointech.
Yes I like it. I got tired of going under the table to fiddle with the
height, now its just a matter of turning a crank from above. Another
thing is the height is repeatable. I've tried that without the lift with
just a router, again more fiddling and its basically hit or miss.
Bottom line is I would buy it again without question. The only
thing that made me put off buying one for a couple of years was the
price. I should of bought it sooner which would of saved me alot of
Now to the nifty digital one, would I buy that one? Probably not
because what happens when the electronics fail? I can rebuild a
mechanical one if need be, but electronics forget about it.
I don't think any home shop will have one, but it is not all that out of
rance for a procution ship. I've beenin factories that make speaker
cabinets. I'd guess at an investment of $15,000,000 or more. And that was
not one of the biggest.
I have a Benchdog. Paid $230 for it. Did I need it? No. Did I want it?
YES. I enjoy using it and it makes adjustment easy and I can sneak up on
any measurement. Would I pay $500 for a digital? No, I have a limit to my
toys and could not justify that much money for my use. Benchdog seems to
have eliminated that model and now only sells the "pro lift" at about $100
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