Be sure both the wood and blade are cleaned. Any residue on the blade will
heat up quickly and cause burning. Also make sure that your saw is in
alignment to avoid and skewing of the block as you push it thru. Avoid
pushing the wood to slow thru the blade. If you have any hardwood scraps to
practice on, that would give you a better feel for how fast.
I just finished making a 6' long maple threshold for a French door set and I
made a 9deg cut to make the bevel which went thru 3" of maple and only had a
small burn mark at the very last inch. Clean blade, good alignment and
nerves of steel !(oh, and did I mention, a good jig to hold the board
perfectly vertical thru the blade - till the last inch anyway...)
Depending upon the size of the piece, I'd consider using a circular saw and
guide...with a good rip blade. Practice to be sure your blade is lined up
with the sole (I have one that isn't and it binds up and burns every time!!)
Provided your saw is properly tuned and the blade is sharp it shouldn't be
a problem UNLESS you're looking to justify buying another blade. If that
be the case, ignore the previous statement and...
No! You need a new blade!
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Thanks for the replies,my circular saw is a POS,so I will try the TS.
I am only ripping 6 inches off,so i can run the narrow pc through the
jointer and make my first attempt with a #7 plane on the wide pc(I'll
make that edge the back!) Keith
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