Did the mahogany come from a boat? Might explain the paint. If so, it's very likely heavily lead-based and may also have copper arsenate etc. in it. Using a sander on this stuff would be a _very_ bad idea!
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On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:58:17 -0500, Steve Turner wrote the following:
One can only pray that there was a coat of finish on that thing before the paint went on. Otherwise, it's in the pores and will never come out. Ex? I'd have been a widower.
-- Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst. -- Lin Yutang
My parents had a bedroom set back in the 50's that was fininshed in what was called "Limed Oak". It looked like the pores were filled with white pigment and then a light white wash coat was applied, then a clear top coat of some clear sealant - probably laquer. It was ugly even back then. Art
That's it!! Tried to fix a nice little chest of drawers that had been thusly mangled. No hope whatsoever. :(
Most of the environmentally friendly strippers I have used are slow and marginally effective. Full meal deal Strip X or Stripeze usually do the job.
Sorry. I am environmentally conscious too but time is worth something.
RonB
Last stripping job I did -- a set of kitchen cabinet doors -- I used a card scraper to take off the old paint in record time. Scraper edges were just filed, not burnished.
The "safe" strippers don't work as well as the hasher chemical strippers. You will need to make that decision. If I had kids in the house or did not have a well-ventilated area, I'd pick the safer stripper. The inexpensive no-brand strippers work very well, just protect your skin, eyes and lungs.
On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 19:46:07 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell wrote the following:
One Atta Boy coming atcha, Hasky.
When I did my kitchen cabinet doors (1939 farmhouse in CA) back in the
80s, I used the same HF hot air gun I have now and a 2" putty knife. Yeah, I did it in the shop with the door open, and I'm sure there was plenty of lead in that old paint. (Please don't tell the EPA that I'm still alive.) They took just minor sanding after that. Once you get the proper heat, the layers all stick together and come up at once at about 3' per minute. I'll never waste that much time again on a door project. It's quicker and not very much more expensive to build new ones. I faced them with luaun ply and Varathane, then deglossed and waxed with Johnson's Wax and 0000 steel wool.-- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson
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My *cheap* Eberle scraper took down the old latex twice as fast as my $20 Chinese heat gun. Sure, I had to file it every
15 minutes, but that was a 30 second job.On Fri, 2 Jul 2010 19:25:32 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell wrote the following:
But will it do mouldings and other curves? ;)
-- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson
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Gooseneck or custom profile. Carved details are still going to need methylene chloride, but you'll be needing
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