That VS Bosch Colt works pretty good. The Ridgids suck. Of course, Festool makes a nice one LOL... only $ 500-ish. In the countertop business...yes, I build counter tops, the Makita has always been a work horse. Just don't drop it. Adjustments are a bit finicky but will stay put.
Upon further reflection, I'd suggest the Makita. You can use bits without bearings which only gum up anyway.
Hi, I'm about to buy a trim router and looking for a few recommendations. I've read some online reviews, but none seem to pick out a particular brand that stands out above the others. I'm tempted to get a Dewalt DW673K trimmer, but thought I'd ask for a few recommendations first.
Thanks
I have the Dewalt and I got the complete kit with all the bases, even including the seaming base and I have been very satisfied with it. There are some other brands on the market that have clear bases so you can better see the cutting point and the Dewalt doesn't come with a clear base, so I made my own from clear Lexan.. That was my only complaint with it and I have solved it very easily.
Charley
I'm looking at trim routers myself. The Bosch Colt gets a lot of good reviews, but the Makita has better visibility - including a couple of LED lights to illuminate the work. I think that's what I'm going to get.
I was going to buy a Dewalt trimmer, but I had great difficulty finding a dealer here in Canada. So, on the recommendation of a dealer I trust, I went with a Makita, but upgraded to one with a chip deflector and an integrated work light. With a little effort, I should be able to jury-rig some sort of vacuum attachment to the chip deflector.
Mine are old, they have two little candles next to the slot where you stick the key to wind it.
I have a Bosch Colt, Has a lot of power, I really like the slow start. For my two cents this is a great trim router....
Randy
I think it would depend on what I was using it for. If was going to do laminate work, I would look at the DeWalt. I have one with all the attachements, and it is a really nice, smooth running router. The dark bases didn't bother me as I was used to it. The big selling point was all the accessories.
But if was to want a router for edging (only) of laminate and easing over edges on wood, I would probably look to another one with a clear base and an LED to let me see what the bit was doing.
Robert
On Jun 12, 10:59 am, Robatoy
I was thinking about you when I was reading this thread. I haven't made a kitchen full of laminate in so many years I couldn't count them. That's why the trim routers stay in their cases.
No matter how many years I have been contracting, it is still a thing of joy for me to see a talented craft person apply their trade. I love the guys that make it look easy.
To see a full time top/laminate guy apply his trade quickly, easily and accurately in a large odd shaped kitchen is sure a humbling experience. That is why my laminate efforts are confined to bathroom vanities and kitchen islands.
That is why my laminate trimmer has very low miles, and all the attachments even less.
Robert
If you are going to be trimming 3/8 acrylic....are you sure you want to use just a trim router? VS is a must.
I'll be starting off by trimming some 3/8" acrylic to be used for shelving for an entertainment unit. Considering what I've read about trim routers, they appear to versatile little tools. I'm sure I'll be able to invent a number of uses for the one I'm buying.
3/8" is probably too much for a laminate router. That is a load for one of these small machines, and unless you have found some really, really easy stuff to cut it will not be pretty when you finish cut as the router won't have enough power to push through the cuts evenly. Trying to buff out rough spots or irregularities in acrylic from an uneven cut is nothing less than painful.
Just thinking out loud here... you might want to reconsider unless you have personal experience cutting the particular acrylic material.
Robert
Not sure about acrylic, but I did 1/2 inch nominal pine with a VS Bosch Colt, 3/8" Veritas straight bit with bearing, taking off up to 1/4" in a pass. It worked fine, didn't bog it down either, but noisy as hell.
Light sand, and finish, wife was impressed, so.... ;-)
When working with acrylic, the magic words are "QUICK" and "FAST".
Take light cuts and don't allow the router bit to slow down, if you want a clean cut.
Using any trim router, I'd limit cut to 1/16"/pass with the final cut being 1/32".
Taping the cut line and cutting 1/8" proud with a good bi-metal saber blade would be a good start.
Lew
I cut 1/2" acrylic for a living. 3 1/2 HP and I trip breakers and break 1/2" bits.
3/8' would be 75% of that load... 2 1/4HP minimum, if they're real horses. You always run the risk of the crap melting and puddling around your bit seizing any and all opportunities to burn, break and destroy stuff.I have even shaped 1" thick clear acrylic. The more aggressive the bit (chip removal) and the more horsepower, the better.
I use trim routers to pick my nose and dislodge that stubborn pepperoni from my teeth. 2 HP to clean my nails. A weedwhacker to comb my hair. I use a 20 pound sledge to hang a picture of my favourite mom!
What is "VS"? The pieces I'm trimming have already been cut to size on a tablesaw. Unfortunately, the cut guarantee was limited to 1/8" tolerances. All pieces are about 3/32" too wide, so I'll be trimming off that amount or maybe a little more. If the trim router I ordered isn't up to the job, I'll find out pretty quick. However, like any other tool, it will be a learning process and I won't be unduly upset if it can't handle the job. I know I'll be using it for other things too. Worse case, I'll use my 25 year old 1hp Black and Decker router. If *that* doesn't work then I've got my Makita 3hp plunge router.
I won't need to buff the edges, because it's the shelving sides that need to be trimmed and they won't be very apparent from the front. The front facing edges are already buffed.
I assume you're talking about taping the line so the edges don't shatter too much? As I mentioned in a previous messages, the acrylic has already been cut on a tablesaw, but it's about 3/32" oversize so that's all I need to trim off with whatever router I use. But, thanks for the suggestion. I'll keep it in mind when I decide to use the 48" x 30" leftover waste piece from the full sheet I purchased.
Can I assume that a decent jigsaw blade would work as well as a saber blade to cut this stuff?
The Bosch Colt is a variable speed router. On a router that small, if you use a rabbet or cove bit. the vibration at top speed is distracting. By slowing the speed, the tool becomes really solid and easy to control. On a small router, I would not want to be without it. You might want to check Pat Warner's web site. He has a lot to say about the router and I agree with him.
May not be correct, but I use "saber saw" and "jig saw" interchangeably; however, unless the blades are Bosch Bi-Metal, they are unacceptable in my shop.
Leave it to the Swiss.
The trick when cutting acrylic is to keep the blades sharp and don't rush it.
Excess heat generated by cutting is your enemy.
Lew
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.