It's time to rebuild the bench I inherited from my Grandparents. It was around when I was a kid, so it's gotta be at least 70 YO. Probably a lot more. I want to do it justice.
The slat's are just under 1 3/8" thick, milled thinner (~1") at the ends to fit into slots in the wrought iron sides. This thing is a beast compared to the home center benches of today.
formatting link
formatting link
I know I could go with cedar but I'm looking for other suggestions. Something that:
1 - Won't require a home equity loan
2 - Can handle 4 seasons, -10° to 100°F, snow, rain, etc.
It's a beaut. There are some modern < tropical > decking woods that might work - they _are_ expensive when doing a deck - but your quantity might not be too bad .. < ? >
formatting link
Curious if you could add a 3rd back board or extend the bottom board down ? - the photo makes it look like a big space between the lower back board and the seat ? John T.
There's no need to change the back from a comfort perspective.
Besides, there is no mounting method for a 3rd board. Each "slot" has an oval backer that is part of the iron ends and there are only 2. The armrests start right below the lower board.
"Extending" the bottom board would not only look strange (IMO) it might also change the comfort of the bench.
I'll have to see if that will work. It might, because, as I said, the ends of each slat are milled down to about 1" to fit in the slots in the iron.
I've another bench that I rebuilt a few years ago, using 3/4 poplar. These slats just sit on a rail. This bench also gives a little when you sit on it. It doesn't get much use though. It's really just something to fill in an empty space.
formatting link
The one I want to rebuild now has rectangular openings in the iron that surround the ends of each slat on all four sides. The iron is also much beefier so I want to be sure the scale of the wood matches the scale of the iron.
I used Cumaru instead of Ipe as wanted the somewhat lighter color and it's a little less expensive that Ipe when redid the two existing porch floors plus the new one. In the end, it priced out as only very slightly more expensive than cedar and is clear instead of knotty and as Leon notes as with Ipe, it's 2-3X stiffer than SYP so you won't need nearly the thickness to get the same or even more solid feel.
Either mills relatively easily compared to the harder of the normal hardwoods, but definitely requires carbide as is heavy in silicates that will dull anything else in short order.
You can get regular dimensional tubaX material as well as the regular flooring -- it is very dense in comparison as well as stiff so the weight will be very noticeable difference -- that may also be an advantage for the purpose.
With the amount we ordered, shipping wasn't at all bad from Advantage Lumber; not so sure about smaller shipments if not in a location with local outlets--there was nobody within 250 mi here that had any access at all from any of their distributors so the online source was it.
I have no qualms in recommending Advantage Lumber to deal with...
Park benches are usually White Oak. It's decay and rot resistant. If you want it to keep looking like furniture it needs protection but so does Ipe (and anything else). White Oak is probably the cheapest and most available species for this purpose.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.