Rebuilding Outdoor Bench - Wood Suggestions?

It's time to rebuild the bench I inherited from my Grandparents. It was around when I was a kid, so it's gotta be at least 70 YO. Probably a lot more. I want to do it justice.

The slat's are just under 1 3/8" thick, milled thinner (~1") at the ends to fit into slots in the wrought iron sides. This thing is a beast compared to the home center benches of today.

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I know I could go with cedar but I'm looking for other suggestions. Something that:

1 - Won't require a home equity loan 2 - Can handle 4 seasons, -10° to 100°F, snow, rain, etc.

Finish suggestions would also be welcome.

Thanks!

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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So my parents bought this bench kit several years ago and I rebuild 3 for a customer.

Hang on to the old slats to get the measurements right. IIRC they are slightly different sizes so that they will bend and can be bolted into place.

Anyway, I use Ipe decking for the replacement wood with SS bolts, washers and locking nuts.

The customer had the iron ends powder coated.

You don't have to finish Ipe unless you want to keep refinishing periodically. Ipe is an Iron wood and very dense.

Reply to
Leon

It's a beaut. There are some modern < tropical > decking woods that might work - they _are_ expensive when doing a deck - but your quantity might not be too bad .. < ? >

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Curious if you could add a 3rd back board or extend the bottom board down ? - the photo makes it look like a big space between the lower back board and the seat ? John T.

Reply to
hubops

That was my plan.

The front slat appears to be milled at an angle so that it follows the slope of the iron ends. Probably for comfort under the thigh.

I'll have to see if I can easily get IPE at at least 1 3/8" so I can mill it down.

Is IPE one of those woods you should only mill while wearing a full hazmat suit?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I'll look at that link. Thanks!

There's no need to change the back from a comfort perspective.

Besides, there is no mounting method for a 3rd board. Each "slot" has an oval backer that is part of the iron ends and there are only 2. The armrests start right below the lower board.

"Extending" the bottom board would not only look strange (IMO) it might also change the comfort of the bench.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

No, but I think it will wear planer blades quickly.

Reply to
Markem618

I did not. I will say that if you sweat the dust will turn blood red and you might think that you re bleeding.

Ipe Decking is 1" thick, 5/4 Plenty strong!

Reply to
Leon

.

One more thing. New wood does NOT make it more comfortable. But worth the effort for keep sake.

Reply to
Leon

It does if you are wearing shorts and the peeling paint is scratching your legs. ;-O

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Ipe? White Oak?

Oil? None?

Reply to
krw

I'll have to see if that will work. It might, because, as I said, the ends of each slat are milled down to about 1" to fit in the slots in the iron.

I've another bench that I rebuilt a few years ago, using 3/4 poplar. These slats just sit on a rail. This bench also gives a little when you sit on it. It doesn't get much use though. It's really just something to fill in an empty space.

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The one I want to rebuild now has rectangular openings in the iron that surround the ends of each slat on all four sides. The iron is also much beefier so I want to be sure the scale of the wood matches the scale of the iron.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

How does white oak hold up outdoors? Does it need finish and upkeep?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Holds up for wine barrels but will turn gray.

My first choice would be Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) Next: Ipe White oak Teak Cypress

Some thoughts here

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Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

I rebuilt mine using leftover teak planks from veranda decking. Do remember to round-over the edges.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

I used Cumaru instead of Ipe as wanted the somewhat lighter color and it's a little less expensive that Ipe when redid the two existing porch floors plus the new one. In the end, it priced out as only very slightly more expensive than cedar and is clear instead of knotty and as Leon notes as with Ipe, it's 2-3X stiffer than SYP so you won't need nearly the thickness to get the same or even more solid feel.

Either mills relatively easily compared to the harder of the normal hardwoods, but definitely requires carbide as is heavy in silicates that will dull anything else in short order.

You can get regular dimensional tubaX material as well as the regular flooring -- it is very dense in comparison as well as stiff so the weight will be very noticeable difference -- that may also be an advantage for the purpose.

With the amount we ordered, shipping wasn't at all bad from Advantage Lumber; not so sure about smaller shipments if not in a location with local outlets--there was nobody within 250 mi here that had any access at all from any of their distributors so the online source was it.

I have no qualms in recommending Advantage Lumber to deal with...

Reply to
dpb

Park benches are usually White Oak. It's decay and rot resistant. If you want it to keep looking like furniture it needs protection but so does Ipe (and anything else). White Oak is probably the cheapest and most available species for this purpose.

Reply to
krw

It sure would mill easier at almost 1/3 the hardness of Ipe. That might be good choice.

Thanks

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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