On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 17:24:48 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
I would suggest you get a dial indicator (harbor freight has them
cheap) and check the flatness of your fence. My shop fox classic fence
was bowed in the middle so even though the two ends were alligned to
the miter slots, the saw cut horrible. After adding some masking tape
for shims, and replacing the plastic face with maple, I'm finally very
happy with the saw.
Thanks. I didn't think of the fence perhaps not being straight. The "Shop
Fox Original" is metal and quite substantial.
Question: How does one use a dial indicator to check the fence? Does it
slide in the miter slot? I almost bought a magnetic-base dial indicator
during Grizzly's summer sale, but didn't because all I could see using it
for was testing blade and arbor runout.
You could buy a TS alligner that slides in the miter slot, or do as I
did and simply bolt the indicator to a block of wood that has a rail
sized for the slot attached to the bottom. Good luck fixing it if you
find this is the case. It was a real PITA, and without having a face
to shim would have been even worse
com to net for e-mail
Or, you could take your combination square, push the broad face firmly
against the fence side of the miter slot, move the fence until it just
touches the extended rule (or extend the rule out to the fence), then,
maintaining the pressure against the miter slot, you could see if you get
gaps or hang-ups as you slide fore and aft from your original point.
Not sexy, but absolutely effective. If you care to see how big the gap is,
should you discover one, you may measure it with those thickness gages, or,
as it matters not how much, but rather that there be as little as possible,
you can add a board, shimmed to be the same distance over its entire length
to the face of your fence.
Sure, assuming that the combo is truly square, most aren't, or that you
touch at the exact same point across the width of the ruler blade.. not
likely. Otherwise in addition to the variety of other problems you
introduce the innacuracy of the combo square.
And it would be a fine practice provided you had the proper technique to
keep the stock parallel to the blade at the cutting edge and ONLY at the
cutting edge. If you guide the stock through ensuring that it is in
constant contact with the fence for the entire cut, and if your fence is
not correctly parallel you will enduce a taper. There is nothign to be
done for it as it is a matter of simple geometry. This could be
compensated for with good technique, but since the OP seems to have a
number of issues it seems that the simplest is the best. What I suggested
was the simplest solution.
Doesn't have to be perfectly square, just has to be the same length when you
move it from one end of the blade to the other. You would be hard pressed
to make it otherwise, unless you're running the saw at the time.
Do you have any real knowledge of woodworking?
<Secret> wrote in message>
It doesn't need to be square.. It does need to be parallel. If you feed
stock into a blade at an angle you get a taper. The degree of the taper
is in direct proportion to the angle.
As to my knowledge of woodworking, your choosing to disparge me without
any actual knowledge of me or my experience is a little inappropriate. I
gave the OP the solution to his problem. What have you contributed?
It IS easily done, however there is no clear indication that it WAS done.
IF the combo is out of square, and IF you use the opposite corner as your
touch spot you introduce a new error. It is admittedly a small error but
an error just the same.Suppose the square was out by 3 degrees, not at
all unreasonable. Across the 1" end of the ruler you'd introduce an error
of .052" if you used the opposite corners as your touch points.
The point of my original post was that a dial indicator was a better
choice for the job.. I'd venture to say that one could do a little better
than .052 off doing it that way.
A stick and block WOULD work just as well, provided the stick was
guaranteed of uniform length. The point was that the average $10.00 combo
square with its typically loose blade is NOT guaranteed of a uniform
A stick is typically guaranteed to be the same length as itself.
Occasionally it will be the same length as another stick. However I have
never seen a stick that is a different length than it is.
Same goes with combo squares. They are always as long as themselves, but may
be shorter or longer than a starett. You could pay more, but you won't get
anything with a better chance of being it's own length.
This thread has gotten a little out of control so this will be my last
comment on it.. but
Unless one end were square and the other end were not. Then, depending on
what surface of the stick you got your mark it may or may be the same
twice. Repeatability is the issue not the length of the stick.
Also not strictly true as if the blade is not square then the end of the
rule will be at different (albeight a small difference) distances along
it's width. The difference (for a 1" wide blade) would be the sin of the
angle that it's out of square by.
Of course. You would not be using the stick the long way for one measurement
and the short way for the next. That would be stupid. I give the poster the
benefit of the doubt on stupidity.
Ah, here is where you are wrong. Even if the blade is not square, the
distance to the high point of the blade will always be the same. Since this
measurement is a contact measurement, you can't touch the short part of the
rule to the blade without the long part of the rule getting in the way. Once
again, I give the poster the benefit of the doubt that they are not stupid
enough to rotate the rule or change the angle of it. If they are then
nothing will help them.
It also goes without saying that you want to rotate the blade to make sure
there is no run-out before you take these measurements. The "quality" of the
measuring device plays very little part in this as long as it is rigid and
can maintain the same (doesn't matter if is it 90 degrees or 84.39 degrees)
angle with the slot.
OK, That is it.
The trueness of the combo square in this application is irrelevant. I can
square my blade to the miter slot within .002, guaranteed, with a combo
Those are 2 big assumptions. An inexpensive dial indicator
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