A lot of failures for flourescent bulbs are caused by voltage fluctutions such as those cause by turning on and off a piece of woodworking equipment. It causes the mercury vapor in the bulb to plate out on the glass. The reason you see the dark regions at the ends of the bulbs after a while is the aforementioned plating. This is a another very good reason to have your lighting circuit on a different circuit than your power tools. It will minimize the voltage spikes as you are adding and subtracting loads from the system and make your bulbs last longer. Welding machines will REALLY give flourescents hell. I installled a 100A sub panel in my Garage/Shop specifically for my equipment loads. I left the lighting circuits feeding from my original house lighting panel which has a 3/0 200A service. I get very little flicker in my lighting. Lucky for me I was able to use "spare parts" from my job as an Electrician and saved a significant amount of money on installation.
"Stephen Meier" spoke in news:bh814e$n52$ snipped-for-privacy@news1.primelink.net:
I was working in the shop yesterday and pair bank of 8' T12 (cold
> weather) flourescents went out (as it did briefly recently). I cussed
> the fixture and continued to work in a more dim room. About a 1/2 hour
> later the other bank went out.
>
> Perhaps coincidentally the 4 x 4' flourescent fixture in my kitchen
> quit the other day.
>
> So I headed out to Lowes for bulbs. A soon asI replace one bank of
> 8'ers the other one came one... perhaps the other one is just marginal
> and decided to work after the balast had cooled down from being turned
> off for a few hours. The Kitchen fixture fired right up with a full > new set. >
> All of these fixtures were on their first set of bulbs and have been
> in use for about a year and a half.
>
> The Lowes display showed liftimes of 8 and 13 yes on the display....
> what's the real life extectancy of these things?
>
>