Yeah: Twenty amp circuit. Seriously. Been there, done that,
though not with the identical model (mine is 25 years old, give
or take). Try that before you decide to spend money/time on
two thing come to mind
the circuit cant handle the start up load of the when restarting with air in
the tank. Is is in a dedicated circuit? have you tried useing a different
plug on a different circuit maybe one that is closer to the service box.
or the check valve has failed and or leaking keeping the pump under presuure
/ load making the restarting harder thus the need for more amps to restart
and the circuit cant handle it.
Why would a larger capacity circuit breaker allow a motor to start
instead of stalling? I don't think so. Just lets the "stall"
continue for a few more seconds.
The compressor needs to start "unloaded", and it seems to do that OK
with zero pressure in the system. It seems apparent to me that the
compressor unloading valve is not working when the control opens at
the high pressure set-point. So it traps the high pressure air in the
compressor cylinder and keeps it on BDC, thereby stalling the motor.
Fellow wrote that the circuit breaker tripped. Mine did, too.
Now, if the fellow plugs his compressor into a 20-amp
circuit, and that does NOT cure his problem, well and
good. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. But if it DOES
restart, then he's spent nothing but a few minutes.
Like I wrote, 25 years ago a 15-amp circuit, which SHOULD
have been sufficient, was not. Switched to a 20-amp circuit
and haven't had a problem since.
It's not just the breaker, it's the wiring to the outlet. The higher
capacity means bigger wires, so less voltage drop in the feedwires for
the same current. That gives a little more oomph when starting.
Still, the right answer is probably:
"To delight in war is a merit in the soldier,
a dangerous quality in the captain, and a
I say its the check valve it the problem...... the check valve on mine
went out and did the same thing(overloaded the motor) if it was the
unloader not working even without air in the tank a defective unloader
would not let the compressor start and would draw too many amps and blow
the fuse or set off the circuit breaker.....
It COULD be either one! Some compressors are "self-unloading" and depend on
the check valve to keep the pressure from coming back. Those using an
unloader valve depend on BOTH. My Craftsman oilless started doing that after
transporting it, found the 1/4" tube to the unloader had been bent, moving
the unloader so it didn't activate when the switch shut off the motor.
Result: blown breaker. Readjusted unloader bracket, it's been fine ever
since.If the check valve were bleeding a little pressure back through, the
unloader valve should handle keeping it bled off until startup time.
Does the compressor make a hissing sound when it shuts off at high
pressure? If not then the unloader valve on the pressure switch is bad.
My son has a PC pancake compressor that was not restarting after
shutting off even though the unloader was working. The compressor was
plugged in a good distance from the breaker panel and the voltage drop
was too great to allow the compressor to get a good start. I solve the
problem by adding a T fitting in the line going from the compressor to
the tank and aconnected a piece of air hose capped on the end to the
line. The extra volume allows the compressor to build up the pressure
in the line before overcoming the check valve spring. Works fine. I've
seen this problem alot on construction sites where compressors are often
run using extension cords.
Chuck Jurgens wrote:
No being familiar with Sears. Is this an oil or oil less?
I have an older Emglo, 15 amp, oil. From factory they put 30w oil in
it, it would start up with no air in it, then do the same as what yours
is doing. Hum until it would trip the breaker. Drained the oil, put in
5w30 in it, no problems for at least 8 years.
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