> "Hoyt Weathers" email@example.com wrote in message
Hello. I don't own a Japanese saw yet, but with Google am trying to
learn. Am I missing something or couldn't you approach the board and
draw the saw like a Samurai would draw a sword? When the board becomes
to close instead of reaching (potentially dangerous to a Samurai),
straddle the board with legs and arms. Anything I should avoid in
purchasing a first saw from the internet?
On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 09:57:58 +0100, the inscrutable grasshopper
The $25.95 (delivered) Razor Saw from www.japanwoodworker.com
is a great deal for a versatile saw. The Ryoba saw has a rip
tooth config on one side and a crosscut config on the other,
and both have decreasing tooth count toward the far end. This
means that they cut finer close to your hand, coarser toward
the end of the pull stroke. It's a great concept and works very
well in practice.
The Gyokucho 9-1/2" Double Edge Saw (Ryoba Noko Giri) 19.610.0
is what I got from them. I would have ordered the slightly
finer-toothed hardwood saw if I'd known they had a choice. If you
order one, see if they'll let you have a 19.611.0 hardwood saw
instead. 1-800-537-7820 (standard disclaimer applies)
With the Japanese "saw on a stick" config, you hold it as you would
a carving knife, but with the index finger pointing toward the blade.
Once started, they can be held any way you like. I have used mine
recently on a neighbor's project (cutting birdhouses from a downed
oak) vertically, in a milk-churn style grip. These things are faster
than my minty fresh Disston rip or crosscut saws. I'm amazed and sold
on the Japanese saw style.
Watch the prices. The really good saws go for upwards of $200 while
the worthless saws go for under $20. Anything priced between those
limits should get you a good saw, But staying with known entities is
always a good choice, too. Lee Valley, The Japan Woodworker, Misugi
are all good names.
A lot of folks can't understand how we came
to have an oil shortage here in America.
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 07:53:52 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote:
I would add that a sub-20 saw might be a good first saw. Why? Because they
are different there are different motor skills to learn and expectations
to revise. I learned the hard way that those itty-bitty teeth will chip
off if you let the saw hit the bench as the cut finishes. I'd hate to have
learned that lesson on a more expensive saw. I learned the hard way that
hardwood is tough on Japanese saws.
Folks here have given good reviews for Tashiro's saws:
http://www.tashirohardware.com/ , when you want to try something a little
On topic, I picked up an Irwin (evil outcast unclean) kataha noko
giri for 40% off, just for fun. Man, that thing whizzes through wood. Not
a finishing saw, for sure.
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad scientist com
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