Re: Help: Bandsaw Blade Tension - The Flutter Method

[Layne]

That's why I don't use the flutter method for tensioning blades. Some BSers "tune" their blade to acertain musical note. Although I used to play the violin most of us aren't musically inclined. Instead I use a similar method but the goal is not listening for a certain note, but rather listening for a certain "quality" in sound. First, back off the upper and lower guides. As you turn the tension knob pluck the blade. At first it's going to make a loose "twang" sound...like a loose guitar string. Keep turning the knob while plucking till the blade makes a nice, tight "ping" sound. Loosen and retighten the knob till you find this transistion (with practice you won't have to do this). When the blade is making a nice tight ping sound give the tension knob a 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

Hope this helps,

Layne

Can someone else who's a fan of the flutter method for setting tension on a >Low Tension (TimberWolf) blade give me a pointer? I'm tensioning a 1/2" >blade. > >1. First, install blade, back off all guides. >2. "Over" Tension blade by setting tension to 1/2" mark on bandsaw scale. >3. Slowly de-tension blade until flutter starts. >4. Re-tension blade until flutter stops. >5. Add 1/2 to full turn for final tension. > >I'm OK until step 4. >In Step 3 I'm de-tensioning 1/2 turn - and pausing - waiting for flutter to >start. > >Once it starts, it seems like I have to put *several* turns of tension on >before the flutter stops. >Q1: Kind'a odd - since it started with a 1/2 turn of de-tension. Seems to me >it would only take a 1/2 turn or so of tension to make the flutter stop, >right? > >At step 4, with the flutter stopped - it seems like if I add another turn or >so - I can get the flutter to start again! >Q2: Does this mean the "first flutter stop" was a false stop? And I need to >tension past this flutter? > >It's that second flutter appearing that's throwing me for a loop - do I keep >tensioning, or was the first flutter stop the set point? > >Thanks! >

[Mark Wells]

When I first got my bandsaw I bought Timberwolf blades and spent a lot of time tensioning using the flutter method. At some point I realized that it really doesn't need to be that precise. I replaced my spring with the one from Iturra Designs, started using Lenox blades (bi-metal and carbon steel), and replaced the crank handle with the one from Highland Hardware. Now I just crank it to the mark on the saw and forget about it. Sometimes to check the tension I'll push the blade with my finger to see how much it deflects. If I turn on the saw and it flutters, then I increase the tension until it doesn't. In general, I don't worry about it.

I don't have a table saw, so my bandsaw is the primary stationary tool in my shop. I've never had a blade break. The only times I had tension problems were before I replaced the spring.

When I first started out, I read all the books on bandsaws and obsessed with tuning the saw. I used a straightedge to line up the wheels. I put the dollar bill around the blade when setting the blocks. I spent a bunch of time setting the tension and adjusting for drift. It might have helped, but one thing I've learned is that the bandsaw is a pretty simple machine. There isn't one exactly right configuration that it has to be in to work properly. As long as the cuts are coming out to your satisfaction, then there's really no reason to make adjustments.

Mark

[mttt]

I think that's sage advice! Appreciated.