Carter Electronic Tension Gauge?

I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would want one of these things.

like taking a gold fish to the vet...

mac

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I'm with ya'!

I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.

My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I bet that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the tension til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.

ah, but what is the correct note. Sure it would work though. Once you got the first note correct. Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a

Alan

If tuned to the same tension/frequency...certainly.

B a r r y wrote in news:BbYue.5715$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com:

Goin' from memory - which is fair warning - the Iturra catalog walks thru an example of using once. Seems to me it was a Lenox (Lennox?) blade that he wanted to tension to the mfg'rs specifications.

Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??

My fingers hurt just to think about it.

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Certainly. You are 100% CERTAIN? I'm not so sure.

Here's my reason:

Take a guitar. Have 6 strings of different thicknesses. (i.e. a standard set) Have them all the same tension. The tones will be different.

It seems to me that on a bandsaw, with the same tension, with different blade widths, will have different tones.

Can anyone validate/refute this?

Psst. Do it from the backside - that's the edge without the teeth. :-)

I am if it is tuned to the same frequency. However: As the frequency increases with tension, wouldn't it stand to reason that if the same frequency is reached.......waitasec..... wouldn't a

This requires more thought.

Good answer and good article, Doug. I still dont' think I'll pay the money for something like this, but I have a better idea why someone with more stringent requirements than myself might want one.

Mike

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Itura has a tension measuring device similar to the Lennox shown in the Lonnie Bird article referenced elsewhere in this thread. Price is around $140 US.

Suffolk suggests using The Flutter Method. Open up the throat to max blade exposure, move the blade guides back away from the blade and put enough tension on the blade so it won't spin off the wheels. Turn on the saw. If the blade's under tensioned it will flutter. If no fluttering then back off the tension 'til fluttering begins then add tension 'til the fluttering stops. If you start with fluttering, add tension until it stop.

Repeating - you need to start with enough tension to keep the blade on the wheels!

And BTW - check the weld before using any blade. A bad weld that lets loose with the saw running will a) accordian an amazing length of band in the blade guard and b) necessitate a shorts change (DAMHIKT).

charlie b

only after giving it lots of room to swim... (flushing it)

mac

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probably.. and my saw shows the "suggested" tension setting for a 3/4" blade quite a bit higher on the scale than a 1/8" blade..

mac

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maybe you get a band saw blade pick?

mac

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