Woodcraft has this model
Thanks in advance.
Ronnie Aldrich Birmingham, Alabama
"shooter" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
How many tubafors can you buy for $165?
Patriarch
I got very similar for a lot less money from Grizzly. I can do chin-ups on the 12" brackets. IIRC earlier this year I bought 4-4" standards, 12-12" brackets, and 4-18" brackets for about $110.00 delivered. Look here
-Steve
Don't know about cost or quality, but I've seen similar brackets available at Home Depot. As a matter of fact, the HD I go to was using them for some of their racks.
'boutahunnert.
--------------------------------------------------- I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol. ---------------------------------------------------
Why in the world would you pay big bucks for one when you can build your own out of 5 or 6 2x4's and scrap lumber for 10 bucks or so??
The Grizzly ones that I bought are very heavy duty. The steel is 3/16" thick.
For me the 5 or 6 2 x's would cost $26. The steel ones from Grizzly are about $110 but you get adjustability with out needing tools to move the brackets and the brackets are only about 1" tall where the 2x4's are taking up much more space at 3.5" per bracket. With 4 shelves you loose 14 inches of storage height vs. 4". For me that was worth the price difference.
Easy, if you design with a front support. This means that long boards need to be threaded in from the end or at an angle. This would not be possible if your lumber rack were on a 12' wall.
Would a 2x4 handle a fully cantilevered design? If it did how deep you you make your verticle members? A 2-by on the flat would not have enough meat in front of the fastener for my taste. Idunno, but it sounds like a reasonable appllication for steel to me.
-Steve
Can't remember where I saw it on the web, but I built a rack out of 3 vertical 2x4s attached to the floor & ceiling joists. 3' apart (like wall studs).
Drilled 1" holes, 16" apart, in the edges at 5 degree angle (pointing up - prevents stock from slipping off) and slipped 12" lengths of 1" pipe into the holes
Ken
I built mine out of 2x4's and liquid nails etc. I braced the shelves with
2x4". My shelves are 2 feet a part and 18 inches deep. I have 4 shelves which is adequate for me. Not bad for 10 or 12 bucks. Any scraps that I needed I got by diving into a contractors dumpster in our subdivision. There's a bunch of houses being built around here. I also got some nice cherry and oak boards out of em.
I used the 12 inch grey painted brackets that screw directly to the wall and ment to hold shelves. They are $1.27 or so at the borg. Placed ever other stud they will hold a lot of weight. I have three rows of four each of these and they are holding over 1/2 load of a small pickup truck of oak. Of course they are not adjustable but the price is right.
Was this plumbing pipe or EMT? I seem to recall one using EMT but can't find it again. I need a rack but only want to make it once. Joe
Can't remember where I saw it on the web, but I built a rack out of 3
I used iron pipe, per the instructions. Just checked and it's 7/8" od 5/8" id
Some extra information about this rack system This is the same type supports that the telephone companies use in their manholes and offices to support cables. They will hold a huge amount of weight and they use all different sizes of the brackets, from the short 6" ones to the longer 16 and longer. You might check at any of the storerooms around your area and talk with any of the foreman there to see if you can scrounge through their metal scrap bins to salvage some of the thrown away hangers and uprights. Once they pull them out.. they are tossed and usually a scrap company comes by once in a while and picks up the scrap metal to get it out of their way Some of the racks may have to be cleaned, but usually the galvanized metal is in very good condition and can be salvaged and easily used. A little looking around your local area's may get you a rack system like this for the price of a little time only With that in mind, check with some of the salvage yards also, They may be one that is picking up the scrap matal and will probably sell it by the pound rather cheeply CC
I fastened a 1 x 4 to every other stud on one wall in my shop then drilled holes to accept short pieces of 1/2" pipe. Drilled through the 1 x 4, drywall, and about 1-1/2" into the stud. Stuck short pieces of 1/2" pipe in and loaded it up. Drilled the holes at a slight angle so to precamber for the load.
cost very little, works very well.
Wall has not fallen in yet.
Frank
I work for the local telco, I park 20ft from the metal scrap bin. In nine years I've scavenged a grand total of four of the longer wall straps. Two were bent, all were mangled on the ends when they were driven into the ground as temporary supports while splicing damaged cables. I've found two short 4" brackets - I think someone cleaned out their truck and tossed what they never used. This is an excellent system, but once installed in a manhole or cable vault, it stays in place just about forever. I got mine from Lee Valley. Prices are about the same at the various woodworking catalogs, but check prices on shipping - these are VERY heavy.
If you get this system, take the time to level the brackets. I used a straight edge across three or four at a time, first at the wall, and again near the tips. At the wall, loosen the lag bolts and slide the straps up or down, retighten the lag bolts. The angles on the brackets can vary a bit, making a difference of a 1/4" or more at the tip. Find the high tips, and lightly grind the back bottom edge where it presses against the wall strap. Failure to establish a plane across the brackets WILL result in wavy lumber.
Thanks. That sounds like good advise.
Ronnie
Thanks, time to get out the crowbar, small, and start organizing the shed. Then I work on the upgrade from shop to studio. Joe
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