Re: engineered wood floor, need to seal joints?

[Edwin Pawlowski]

We are in the process of having an engineered wood floor glued down on a

> concrete base. It is a Mannington Mills Ultrafit tongue and groove system, > Biltmore 3" maple with beveled top edges on each piece. Looks great so far.

I just installed Mannington over concrete and did not glue it down. What are you gluing to? You are supposed to have a water barrier AFAIK? I glued the tongue and groove, but nothing else. I'd check out the appropriatness of the installation over concret with no poly barrier. To me, that is more of a concern than a little spill.

> Several rooms including the KITCHEN! I am worried about water percolating > down between the individual pieces. They fit pretty tight, but I think that > water will certainly get in. What will that do?

In my case, it is sealed at the edge, the glue is water proof and would form a barrier itself. Water should not get past the adhesive.

> Seems to me that there should be some thin sealer that could be applied to > the floor to seal the seams and prevent water from getting in. Even floor > wax might do it.

I'd be leery of putting anything on top of the already fine finish. If you used a varnish or poly coating, it probably would show scratches before the factory applied finish. You only need to protect the area at the beveled edge. Was would tend to fill in the area. I don't have it in my kitchen, but I'd rely on the adhesive, properly applied, to do the job.

I did my own installation and saved about $1200. Used part of that to buy a CMS to do the cutting. Ed [e-mail]

[Big Al Dexter]

Just for grins, have you tried calling the Mannington rep? I was laying one of their engineered floors over 3/4 T&G and had a Q for them, so on a whim I got on their web site and called up - wonderful customer service in my case. It's worth a shot, and they will help you make sure you don't void the warranty. My gut is that they'll say do NOT put ANY finish over the factory one, but it will be interesting to see what they say in your particular situation (please let us know!).

-- Henry

"Dave C" wrote:

concrete base. It is a Mannington Mills Ultrafit tongue and groove system,5Biltmore 3" maple with beveled top edges on each piece. Looks great so far.hvSeveral rooms including the KITCHEN! I am worried about water percolating0down between the individual pieces. They fit pretty tight, but I think that9water will certainly get in. What will that do?4aSeems to me that there should be some thin sealer that could be applied to5the floor to seal the seams and prevent water from getting in. Even floorqwax might do it.0mThanks for any advice.9BDaveC

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[Dave C]

This is a thin layer of lightweight concrete on second floor of a light industrial building. No moisture will be coming up through the concrete unless sea level comes up by about 100 feet. Installers didn't mention a moisture barrier; they seem to be pretty careful company. Glue directly on the lightweight concrete.

Dave C.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Well, youjust never know. If it come sup 99' 11" you want protection. If it comes up 100' 2", it will not matter anyway.

Most installations on concrete are a slab on the ground, but your case is different, of course. It will be interesting to see if Mannington has anything to say about it. As I said, the glue seal in the t&g is good in my case, but in yours, they may not have to glue the joint since it is glued to the floor. . There is a little potential for water to soak in that way. Ed [e-mail]