On my 1972 Sears RAS the rear table is actually two pieces--one about
2" wide and the other about 4 or 6" wide. I can't categorically say they were all that way, but all the ones I've seen were.
I think the 2" piece is intended to always be at the back and is what the table clamps bear against. I'll have to look at the manual and see what it says about it. It's been years...
The wider piece is either behind the fence (normal operation) or in front of it, depending on whether or not you're ripping and need the extra capacity.
It's time to ditch that table and the fence system. It's unsafe to operate your RAS in this fashion. I suggest obtaining a copy of the Mr. Sawdust book "How To Master The Radial Saw"
formatting link
and build a new table as per his suggestions. You'll end up with a two ply steel reinforced table that will remain flat. Also you'll use a two back board system so that you can position the motor for various RAS operations.
Ahhh. $100 says they used it exclusively for ripping. The carriage got turned around to the crosscut position for sale/delivery. Probably the first time it had been that way for years.
No need to post photos, your table isn't made right. RS tables normally have 3 pieces...the front table which is permanently fixed and 2 back table pieces, each of which is a different width. The combined width of the two back tables must be sufficient to place the saw blade behind the fence.
The reason for the two back table pieces is that either can be removed when ripping to place the blade closer to the column when in/out ripping.
I never rip on my RAS so my back table is just one piece approximately
8" wide.
I'd suggest you buy a manual for your saw.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at
Surprised this hasn't come up yet. There's a pretty good chance that your saw is covered by a recall. The recall is specifically for the guard, but since the new guard will not fit with the original table, they also send you a nice new table. IIRC, it is totally free to you, and comes with very good instructions for how to align your saw. Go here for all the details:
The recall is only for Craftsman saws manufactured by Emerson. Unless someone gave it a paint job along with the table modifications, that doesn't look like a Craftsman to me.
When I purchased my RAS a few years ago, it was set up in similar fashion to yours. The top was made of particle board and the fence appeared to be an old wooden bed rail attached to the very rear of the top, behind the blade. The guy I bought it from gave me a song and dance about having received it from his son and not having enough space for it in his basement. However, his basement looked plenty big to me so I'm guessing that in its improper configuration he was never able to figure out how to use it safely and decided to ditch it. And that's how I was able to purchase it for just $75. Fortunately, my saw qualified for the Craftsman recall and I got a nice new table top free of charge, although I did have to supply my own fence(s) which I made out of 3/4" MDF and installed in it's proper location in front of the blade.
John Girouard ( snipped-for-privacy@girouard.com) wrote on Wednesday 17 August 2005 10:31 am:
Interesting site, but mine doesn't qualify. It -is- a Craftsman, but the model number starts with a 103, not a 113. Even if it did, it's a 9" saw, which does not have a retrofit kit. Instead, I'd have to send them then carriage and motor assembly to get $100. This, of course, would destroy my saw.
John Girouard ( snipped-for-privacy@girouard.com) wrote on Wednesday 17 August 2005 10:31 am:
Looks like my dating was off. The guy I bought it from said it was from the '70s, but some internet searching puts it at 1964, at the latest. Sorry for the bad info.
What I've looked at on that web page looks good, but I noticed the book seemed to be geared toward DeWalt. Will I get much out of the maintenance for my ancient Craftsman?
You may not find a manual specific to your saw but most any would do. Sears sells/used to sell a red, soft cover book that covered several tools including the RAS.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at
Mr. Sawdust's book applies to any RAS with respect to operation. His alignment suggestions apply to DeWalt's. If you wan a good book for alignment of your Craftsman, you want the Jon Eakes radial saw book. (do a google).
Did you try Sears parts? Did you check at OWWM.COM to see if they might have a manual for your machine? OWWM is a treasure trove for things related to old woodworking machinery.
Just about ANY good book on radial arm saws will lay down the specific principles of maintaining and aligning your saw. The implementation thereof will vary somewhat between makes but it typically is NOT rocket science.
As for the table problem you seem to have:
Typically, you will see four, maybe more bolts which fasten the main table to the saw frame along with one or two adjusting screws towards the center of the table which provide adjustment/support to keep the top from sagging and screwing up your hard work aligning
What you need to do is fabricate a top which is less deep (front to rear so there's no confusion) which will, in turn allow you to place the following BEHIND the main table and in front of the support column: 1) a 3/4" thick fence, 2) a piece approx 3 1/2" wide and 3) a piece approx 1 1/2" wide
The latter dimensions are not critical, more proportionate than anything else. They allow for the in and out rip mentioned by others. Changing those dimensions will really only affect the measuring device (if any) on the arm. No biggie.
The fence and the two spacers mentioned are then clamped into position somehow - my Craftsman uses a little L-bracket on each side with a thumbscrew not unlike what you'd find on a small C or bar clamp.
If you strike out at Sears and OWWM.com in your quest for a manual, let me know and I'll scan in the relevant portions of my early 70's Craftsman RAS and send it to you as a .pdf file.
Yes. The table alignment procedure for a radial arm saw, well described in the book, is consistent throughout the world of RAS' for the most part, even if there are some differences in certain specifics (control locations and fasteners, for example). There are also some usage examples that are applicable in principle across the RAS spectrum. It's also interesting reading just to learn a little about the history of the RAS.
Unquestionably Confused ( snipped-for-privacy@ameritech.net) wrote on Thursday 18 August
2005 07:50 am:
That's one of the first sites Google hit - there's not one there.
I figured as much. As far as I know, I have it set up pretty darn close - all my crosscuts are square, and the blade is parallel to the fence for rips. There does seem to be a bit of warp or slop in the guide bar (i.e. the one -not- primarily supporting the saw), though. This usually shows up as making one side of a 4' long, 12" wide cut 1/32" longer than the other, and as a bit of a bow in the cut. I spent several hours one afternoon tearing things completely down and putting them back together trying to eliminate it. It's more noticeable on oak than soft pine.
Mine has four threaded holes, two on each of the table supports. The first pair of threaded holes is 10" from the front of the table support, the second 20". At the front of the table support (nearest the post) is a pair of non-threaded holes that look like some of the picture hangers that are meant to hang on a bolt or nail head (i.e. two circles of differing diameters sort of squished together).
There is no adjusting screws, or any place adjusting screws would be.
There's no scale on the arm of this thing.
I'm downloading the Emerson's manual from owwm.com right now. Thanks.
Hasven't had my morning coffee yet so I'm missing your point here. If, however, its what I think it is, that manual you downloaded should tell you generally how to snug things up. If it's a worn part you may have some difficulty but as I recall there are numerous minor adjustments that can be made to snug things up on all the mechanicals.
As in a keyhole slot to either side (outboard) of the base frame or, perhaps, right on it, dead center? The smaller portion of the hole is to the rear, correct? That's where the thumb screw like clamp for the rear tables/fence go. IF you don't have the screws any longer then you'll just have to buy some from Sears or Jerry-Rig something. Once you see the manual you'll understand what is needed. Should not be a major problem regardless
That or those probably disappeared when the table was replaced. Again, you'll see it/them once you get your hands on a manual, most likely any Sears manual. It is used to adjust the center of the table to keep it flat. Piece of cake. Get a drive in t-nut, drill the appropriate sized hole for the set screw, insert setscrew in counter-bored (from the top) hole and adjust as necessary. Just make sure to size the screw so that it doesn't intrude more than half the thickness of the top. You don't want to "adjust" it with your carbide tipped blade. It would probably work but then you'd have other problems
This doesn't make any sense to me...if you're making a 4' long cut you have to be ripping and to have one end wider than the other at the end of a rip means something has moved during the cut???
At first I was thinking the rollers on the arm are sloppy and I suppose you could still be canting them...if so, they should be mounted on eccentrics so they can be snugged up to the rail--you want them "just under" the point at which it is hard to move the head but not sloppy.
I suppose you could also have a loose yoke lock or simply the structure isn't rigid enough...I don't know this saw so don't know how sturdy it is (or isn't)...
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.