I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle
Is the on-off switch a slide type switch?
Does the switch turn off when you let go or do you have to pull it
(you could really get jammed up if it is not a momentary on switch)
Is there a second handle or a threaded hole to add one?
(doesn't look like it from the picture)
Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away?
(the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does)
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
(different model number at Tyler DA3010F)
Is this a 'real' DeWalt tool or the crappy 18V drill I bought at
Lowes for $99
I can't use the Milwaukee or other 1/2 r-angle drills because I only
have 7" to work in
Which Milwaukee? If the Milwaukee "close quarter" is too big, then the
Makita and Bosch you mention, which are all almost identical in size, may be
I own the above and use it when installing slides in kitchen cabinets and
other tight spots.
If it helps, the head of the drill, from the top to the mouth of the chuck,
is a bit less than 3 3/4".
That looks like a good ergonomic design, especially for a corded drill.
Tell us about it. How powerful is it? I presume it is only for small jobs.
Does that monsterous trigger ever go off before you want it to?
How is it anglewise in terms of reaching back into a cabinet and using it?
Does the cord get in the way?
this milwaukee is too big
A little over 5"
Looks like a nice tool but I am drilling down and will backing up
against the subfloor so the angle of the tool and cord placement will
be a problem. If I did a lot of cabinetry work I would definitley own
This might be a possibility. I e-mailed Milwaukee to get the specs
but it doesn't look much smaller than the 3107
I think I can get by with the Makita or Bosch 3/8 because I only need
to drill 1/2 holes into cinder block. I did a test hole in the garage
and the 1/2" bit went in fairly easily with a non-hammer drill and a
new bit. The DW 18V cordless RA might also work but it has no side
handle to help me pull it down
Rental is out because the places I chack all have the bigger Milwaukee
or the gargantuan Hilti
As an aside why don't any of the manufacturers post the size of these
drills? For a regular dril I could see it is not that important, but
for a R-angle drill wouldn't the chuck tip to end of tool be something
a potential buyer would want to know?
I know I want to know.
The paddle slides from a lock position to a press in position, the more you
press the faster it goes, release it and it returns to the lock position. On
the back end is a speed dial that controls the maximum speed. On the top is
the forward/reverse switch.
There is no place to add a handle however the body is at 90 degrees to the
drill shank and is long enough that it has been no problem holding on to it.
It worked for me in a very difficult location, trying to feed some wires
above the basement wall, between two close joists and drilling up behind the
drywall, while trying to reach over a cabinet installed on the wall flush
with the ceiling with very little room to see what I was doing.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.