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Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

Reply to
Wilson
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Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors. Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve you well. Keep an eye on

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they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's motor? Thank you.

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Reply to
Jack

Whichever motor you decide to use, make sure it is TEFC rated. (totally enclosed, fan cooled). The 'totally enclosed' part ensures that sawdust won't find its way into the innards of the more. 'Fan cooled' is self-explanatory.

Reply to
Upscale
[...]

For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous motor.

Reply to
Juergen Hannappel

That is certainly correct; however, 3 phase power is not available in the US in homes. Businesses are very different. Jim

Reply to
Jim

Then a phase converter to run it on.

Reply to
CW

Good Grief! No wonder you have motor problems.

Reply to
George E. Cawthon

I don't think you could overload this motor in a jointer, unless face jointing hard wood and doing it rapidly. Your 16 ga wire was very short and probably didn't make enough drop to be a big deal. I think you have an insulation fault that caused the overheating and eventually got serious enough to short out and blow the breaker.

If it is not enclosed, you could have sawdust in the starting switch???

My jointer is a 6" Sears with about 1/2-3/4 HP and never overloads. Wilson

Reply to
Wilson

This is the best idea yet. Upgrading the wiring to the motor eliminates the electrical drag (resistance) caused by undersized and overheated wires. Damn minimalistic engineers.

Pete

Reply to
cselby

It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two years old. Yesterday, I used it continuously for about two hours and it starts making a funny noise, the motor's thermal overload tripped and quit. I opened the machine panel and smell the insulation, the motor was warm, not hot. After it cooled down, it started with the funny noise again and quit, this time my 20 amps panel's breaker tripped.

I am thinking of replacing it with a 2hp Farm duty motor which is cheaper than a Leeson's continuous cycle motor, or buy a Grizzle's

1-1/2hp motor. I really don't think the motor is kaput, maybe the motor's insulation is bad or the power wire is a 8 ft,16/3 gauge. Maybe, if I replace it with a 12/3 it may help? Any suggest or should I go ahead and replace the 1-1/2hp motor with a Farm duty 2hp motor.

Thanks again.

Reply to
Jack

It sure isn't gonna hurt. 16ga is kinda light for that motor.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment. I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the

16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you. .
Reply to
Jack

A phase or rotary converter will cost a few hundreds more. BTW, do you think by changing the original 16/3 about 8 ft long connecting power wire to a 12/3 will help? I got a gut feeling the under size power wire drawing excessive current and tripped the circuit breaker in the control panel?

Reply to
Jack

The field could be rewound. A bad capacitor can be replaced. A bad thermal switch can be replaced. Bearings can be replaced. There really isn't much that can't be fixed. Jim

Reply to
Jim

The question is, what can be done for less than the cost of another motor. When I had to replace a 1 3/4 HP motor a while back, I called a place looking for rebuilt units. They told me they don't even bother rebuilding anything less than 10HP. Start capacitors and thermal switches might be easily replaceable, but I wonder about getting a smallish motor rewound.

todd

Reply to
todd

Somebody asked:

Yes, but at what price.

I have been out of the motor business for over 25 years.

Back then anything below 10HP was automatically scrapped because you could replace it for less than the rebuild price.

Would not surprise me if the cut off is 15HP these days.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable? BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate it.

Reply to
Jack

I didn't mention costs because that subject is one for discussion between the OP and the rebuilder. In all likelihood, though, it would be cheaper to replace a motor with a bad field.

Jim

Reply to
Jim

An undersized wire will have too much resistance, thereby drawing LESS current, not more. Because of the higher resistance, more power is dissipated in the wire; therefore it heats up, eventually getting hot enough to melt the metal (and/or start a fire) resulting in an OPEN circuit, not a short circuit.

1.5 HP is a little over 1100 watts. At 220V, that's around 5 amps of current. 16/3 shouldn't have any problem handling 5 amps. If you're running it at 115V, you're closer to 10 amps, which is still okay for 16 ga. wire. Personally, I'd replace the wire with 12/3, but don't expect it to solve your issue.

Josh

Reply to
Josh

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