On Nov 3, 1:53 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
You do get a small bit of cutting action on the backstroke. It's
probably the best way to start the cut accurately.
If you've ever sharpened a handsaw, though, you already know the
reason. Traditional crosscut and rip saws are sharpened with
triangular (three-corner) files. To get the angles right, the file is
laid into the gullet so that it bears against the front side of one
tooth and the back of another. When you stroke it, both sides are
sharpened. It would be difficult to sharpen the fronts without
sharpening the backs.
Cleaning out the sawdust is done on the cutting stroke - it is carried
forward in the gullets. You get a little on the top side of the
board, but the great majority of it is on the bottom side. If it's
not, then you're loading up the saw by cutting too thick a piece with
teeth too fine.
Japanese ripsaws are designed to be used while standing on the stock,
holding the saw in both hands.
A japanese saw suitable for smalls-scale ripping would be something like
an 8tpi ryoba. The blades are not as long as a western saw, however.
For large scale ripping, the japanese used to use something like a
Kobiki-Nokogiri or Temagori-Nokogiri. These are very coarse saws, with
an 18" cutting edge at 2tpi.
Irwin makes a 10tpi pullsaw with a 15" blade, available at many tool and
I think the answer is that they simply don't exist. You could always
buy one and re-file the teeth for a pull stroke if you really wanted to,
but I don't know why you would bother...a pull-saw doesn't need as thick
a plate as a push saw, so you'd be wasting energy.
Have you considered a fullsize european frame saw with the blade cutting
on the pull stroke?
Thanks. I found a Stiletto 22" push pull hand saw. Was that the one you are
referring to or was there one that did have a 26" blade? Despite its price,
I may actually buy it.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)28661071&sr=8-46
I appreciate that. Originally, I was looking for one that cut on the pull
stroke, but it makes eminent sense to me to have one that cuts in both
directions. And yes, I did find a 26" model on the Magnum tools website for
$20 less. I've got an email into them to ask what it would cost to ship to
I've got the frame saw from here:
It's not a panel saw like a Diston, but with the Japanese-style blades
(cross-cut and rip), it's a damn fine tool, and you can go from
pull-cut to push-cut at will.
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