There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that usually
cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that cuts on
the pull stroke.
The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine toothed saws
I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull stroke
like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to find one
Don't see the original post, but the OP might want to look at
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/default.php/cPath/37_308 . They
have a variety of timber saws that are either bidirectional or cut on
the pull stroke, some made in Germany and some in Japan. All theirs
are crosscut. The prices seem reasonable for what they are selling.
He might also want to look at their Japanese saw section--they have a
heavy carpentry "Z" brand saw that might be a good choice (note that
in tests the "Z" brand has sometimes outperformed very high priced
http://www.fine-tools.com/kobiki.htm has more information including
the Japanese nomenclature for larger saws. They have both rip and
crosscut variants and a couple of models, and will ship to the US, but
their prices even before shipping are much higher than Traditional
http://nokogiri.com/ has several fairly substantial Japanese saws for
very reasonable prices.
Beyond that, googling "japanese timber saw", "kobiki nokogiri",
"maebiki nokogiri", and "temagori nokogiri" will yield some sources
and a lot more information, including photos and descriptions of the
use of some Japanese antiques of the sort that are no longer being
I suspect that a Japanese today who would in prior years have used a
kobiki nokogiri just fires up the chain saw.
If he wants something that can be bought locally, Sears stores stock
the 12" Shark Saw General Carpentry Saw (Sears item 00936581000) for
under 20 bucks. If that's not big enough he can find a 15" and an 18"
from the same company--Sears doesn't stock them though--googling
10-2315 and 10-2318 will find a wealth of suppliers for those--Amazon
lists both for aroune 20 bucks and shipping.
Seems a bit odd to have a large pull-cut saw. I have three Japanese
pull-cut saws that work very well on smaller, tighter areas. On a
larger saw, the blade will have the tendency to be pulled out of the
handle. Certainly, a different set of arm muscles to work.
On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 11:12:36 -0400, Phisherman wrote:
I have one of the good-sized two edged ones (ryoba?). It works well,
except, as you say, the blade occasionally pulls out of the handle. I
keep meaning to epoxy it in, but it hasn't been that bad yet :-).
But does it have a 24-36 inch blade? No. I'd guess it at 14-15 inches.
You can't seem to find one to buy because you wouldn't like it after
you bought it. It wouldn't work very well.
You need downward pressure on the teeth to get them to cut. With a
normal Disston-type handsaw, having the handle well above the line of
the teeth gives you quite a bit of downward pressure - on the push
stroke. On the pull stroke, though, it tends to lift the teeth out of
If you look at a typical crosscut tooth, you'll find that the rake
angle is not that much different on the front and back of the tooth.
I've seen saws filed with equal angles front and back. A Disston-type
handsaw will cut on the backstroke, but only if you add downward
pressure to the cut. That's awkward to do with that style handle.
A good saw shop can easily wipe out the teeth on your handsaw and re-
cut them so that they are facing backwards. Try it. Don't use a good
saw, though - I don't think you'll like it.
I use a wheelchair John. Able bodied people stand above the work they're
cutting and use their body as a major part of the force needed for a push to
cut stroke. That's not something I can do anymore. Typically, when I use a
handsaw, I *am* pulling on a downward angle, so the type of saw I'm looking
for is exactly what I need and what I want. I've also got a smaller toolbox
saw with that cuts on the pull stroke and it works great as far as I'm
I often cut from below with a pull stroke as well. But with a pruning
saw, not a handsaw. The pruning saw has a handle somewhat like that
on a Disston-type handsaw, and the teeth are designed to cut on the
pull stroke. Just what you want. But the low placement of the handle
and the curve of the blade put your pulling force below the line of
the teeth, so that it keeps them biting into the work.
The typical Disston-type handsaw has the handle well above the cutting
line of the teeth. Regardless of the position you cut from, pulling
on the handle tends to lift the teeth away from the work.
You might get it to work better if you punch new holes in the blade
and reposition the handle so that it is below the teeth.
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