I'm planning on the purchase of a finger joint and/or box joint bit. I
was wondering about the re-adjustment of these bits to rout the
I'm thinking that I could create a matched set of samples and adjust
the router bit to match them. I was wondering if there were any other
shortcuts? ~ Thanks
I use a sled and my T/S for box joints.
Have individual sleds for 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4".
BTW, you need a flat bottom blade, I use a 24 T rip.
On 1/2/2014 5:58 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I would imagine that with a finger joint bit you could simply change the
height of the bit for the mating piece and test on scraps. Having a
couple of scraps for set up would probably be a good idea too. IIRC
Jesada, remember them, sold or included plastic set up block for their
rail and stile bit sets.
My method is simply to test on scraps as I am not always going to want
to have the profile in the same place, with rail and stile bits. It
would make more sense to have the scrap set up pieces for the finger
Now, considering box joints, I used to cut them with my Leigh Jig. It
did a great job with a carbide spiral bit but unfortunately set up was
trial and error by adjusting the adjustable router collet. It was time
I now use the Incra iBox box joint jig on my TS with my dado set. The
iBox can also be used on a router table.
The beauty of the iBox is that you can make any size box joint, the size
of the bit or stacked dado set is not important, you make a test cut and
adjust the jig to the width of the test cut.
I have the Incra system on my router table and have used it many times
for various box joints. Once the 'futzing' has ended it becomes second
nature and works perfectly. There was on time however when I had to make
24 shallow trays for my wife's glass studio and spent $60 for the Freud
box joint table saw blade set. I'll probably never go back to the router
table for square peg box joints again unless I need something other than
1/4" or 3/8" fingers. The big difference is speed. With the router table
you need to go slow, with the table saw you can go much faster and still
get super clean cuts. Now if someone would just make a dado blade set
with the outer blades equipped with dovetail angled teeth (perhaps to a
depth of 1"), dovetails would be just as simple.
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