Have any of you mitre saw owners used a metal cut off blade in a mitre saw
designed for woodworking?
Safety is of course, a definite consideration. I'm asking if there are metal
cut off blades designed for use in a standard woodworking chop saw? I expect
to be cutting some metal tubing in the near future and would like to know if
I need to buy a metal chop saw designed for that purpose or can I use a
woodworking mitre saw and get dual duty service out of it?
So you're saying that it puts a lot of wear on the motor? Ok, that's
something that didn't occur to me. I don't yet own a mitre saw or a metal
chop saw, but was hoping to buy one and get use out of it in both cases. I
do however, have an old B+D power saw. Thanks.
Hard on the motor, but not from the cutting strain. If you have a slow
enough feed rate and are cutter softer metals with the proper blade,
then the strain wouldn't be much more than cutting some hardwood.
Abrasive dust/residue from an abrasive cutoff blade will kill your CMS.
If you're planning on using an abrasive blade, it's probably a better
idea to just buy a cheapo HF cutoff saw. If you're just cutting thin
aluminum, you could get away with just using your carbide blade...the
old one. ;)
I've cut aluminum on my miter saw. Many of the standard woodworking
blades are rated for non ferrous metals. I think TC & F with negative
rake angle recommended. But check with some blade manufacturers
I worked in an aluminum extrusion plant where cuttoff was done with
radial arm saws and skill saws. that was so long ago I don't think
miter saws were invented.
Get a toilet wax seal and touch it to the blade before each cut.
Aluminum can be cut with most wood cutting blades - just wax them first.
You don't need an abrasive wheel for them. Just cut slow and steady. For
tubing, clamp it securely as sometimes they want to spin at an inappropriate
I have an old B & D miter saw, pre compound angle. With an abrasive
blade I have cut steel, and with a diamond blade I have cut bricks (
fireplace). The saw is still dead on and the bearings don't make noise
. I wouldn't do this will the sliding Makita .
Aluminum, as has been said, can be cut with most woodworking blades
with no problem. I've done some cutting of steel on my miter saw
using an old carbide blade and it's cut just fine, but that was just a
few cuts and I wouldn't want to do that with a good blade.
I used a 7" 4 tooth carbide blade on my Sears 10" miter saw to cut
aluminum and a 10" abrasive blade to cut the steal for the trailer I
built. The aluminum cuts very cleanly and the blade makes chips like
sawdust. The abrasive blade on steel makes sparks and the 'chips'
look like grindings. The abrasive blade wears very fast if you push
the saw. Do not wear shorts, sandals, t-shirt when you do this.
Do wear eye protection. This stuff comes off hot.
I see the guys that do straight finish cut door tacks (aluminum) all
Of course there are grades of aluminum (soft to fairly hard) but I
don't know enough abouth that to give you any info.
A good carbide blade and a slow to moderate feed rate and it should be
As far as wear on the saw I don't feel thats an issue either. It will
drag on say 8/4 Oak a lot more than on aluminum pipe I would guess.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.