I'm having a problem coping the ends of small mullions on the router
table. The horizontal mullions are only 5" long and I'm using 1/2 X
3/4 stock. I'm using a block of wood with the profile cut in it as a
carrige jig to hold the mullion secure, and to prevet break out on the
edge. I move the mullion and carrige block through the router bit by
holding the mullion and carrige against the fence at 90 degrees and
while pushing it across the router bit with the miter gauge.
The problem I'm having is that the router bit pulls the mullion out of
the carrige slightly and causes the cope to be uneven, leaving a
slight gap on one side of the cope when the mullions are fit in the
door against the rails and center mullion. I've tried clamping the
mullions to the carrige but the mullions are so small that clamp
doesn't grip the piece well enough to prevent movement. I would cope
the ends first and then do the rabbit etc. second but the piece is too
small to push through the router. My next step would be to nail the
mullion to the carrige block. Is there any other way?
On 2 Oct 2003 05:10:56 -0700, email@example.com (CJ) Crawled
out of the shop and said. . .:
it sounds as if you might have too large an opening in your router
i had similar troubles the first time i cut rail and stile doors with
my old RT fence.
try to make a sled for cutting end grain like that.
use a piece of 1/2" plywood about 10" square.
mount a "backer board" about 5" or so from the left side edge, and get
a toggle clamp from your local woodworkers supply place (rockler,
woodcraft. . .) that can lock the piece to the sled while you
concentrate on keeping all your fingers the same length :)
you also might think about sticking a strip of sandpaper to the face
of the backerboard, this does wonders to help hold the piece in place.
so, smaller fence opening, sled, clamp and sandpaper. . .
hope this gives you some ideas. . .
Get some 120 grit PSA backed sandpaper and attach it to your carriage. Now
when you hold the mullion against the carrier, it will not slip. Also,
think about using a zero-clearance insert around the router bit which will
also help to keep the workpiece perpendicular to the router bit during its
travel past the bit.
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