I am planning to put a black walnut cap on a knee wall in a shower/
bath stall. The wood won't get much direct water, but will get wet
enough to require a poly finish. I would like to treat with tung oil
first. Will poly apply over tung oil?
I want to do that because I really like the color of black walnut when
it is treated with tung oil, but need the protection of polly. Are
there other suggestions? For getting both the look and the protection?
Okay, "most" should have been "many".
I also assumed that he meant tung oil finish when he said tung oil; that is
probably a safe assumption considering the question. Have you priced pure
tung oil recently?
I tend to be overly literal so when I read "tung oil" I tend to
think "tung oil" but You're right, probably more often than not
people using a "tung oil finish" may simply call it "tung oil"
A little tung oil goes a long way which is good becuase it is
pretty expensive compared to Linseed oil. OTOH my experience
with _boiled_ linsed oil has been that it retains a greasy
feel for months, even if I add Japan drier to it. That, and
it darkens afterwards. Those old planes and clamps in antique
shops are black, I think, because they were treated with linseed
oil way back when. The transitional planes, which were vanished,
typically are much lighter.
Of course I doubt that the kneeboard in his shower is going to
last a hundred years.
The color will be about the same with linseed oil, and since oil-based poly
will contain it, skip one stage. Spar varnish will be even longer in oil
than regular, if you want to use it. Softer, but more flexible finish.
an oil finish that penetrates, like tung or BLO will look different
from an oil film finish like varnish or poly. the penetrating oil will
let light travel a bit further into the wood, giving depth to the
Aw, c'mon. You can't look any deeper than the surface no matter what you
put on it, unless you're Superman. Since the oil forms only a negligible
film , the only thing you gain is less surface scatter as the oil soaks and
reduces the scatter of the thinnest of the thin _translucent_ areas around
the pores. Notice that the color looks deeper when the oil is wet, and
becomes more dull - scatters more light - when it penetrates and cures.
What you want is a finish which remains on the surface, as the wet oil did,
forming a film which reduces scatter. That's the basic principle of
finishing, to gain a smooth surface from what wasn't. You may see glare or
you may see through. What you don't see is halfway there.
Unless you're using varnish with additives to scatter the light.
I bought a maple workbench top we are using for a kitchen counter. It
was dripping with what I was told was tung oil. All I did was wipe it
down with mineral; spirits and shoot it with MS thinned (50:50) poly.
A lot of coats.
It came out beautiful.
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