Looking at some red oak ply that I need both sides good. Grades available are B2, A2, A1 and plain slice and rotary slice. What do they mean?? Next question is I need to put an edge molding over some of the exposed edges. How well does the heat glued edging hold up or should I look at glue-it-yourself :)
CORE veneer core v/c lumber core l/c (sawed lumber: strongest, best edge, easiest to cut, not common) fibre core f/c particle core p/c
ADHESIVE Type 1: (or "technical type"): exterior water proof Type 2: moisture resistant, some delam if wetted, most common interior Type 3: come apart if wetted; interior, keep reasonable dry
GRADE Hardwood
Face (by letter) AA A B C (considered utility grade) D (considered utility grade) E (considered utility grade)
Back (by number)
1 (best) 2 3 4Imported Hardwood (gen diff) Face BBPF (best) BB CC OVL
Back A (best) B
Softwood (both face and back by same letter) N (best-not common, special order) A B C-plugged C D
CUT ROT (rotary) FLAT flitch cut, or stay-log cut - may be slip matched or book matched
GROUP (strength or specific gravity of species in core) - unless specific application of strength or stiffness, need not worry. Hardwood A (strongest) B C
Softwood
1 (strongest) 2 3 4 5Generally, woodworkers use B-2 or better on visible or outside, and C-2 or C-3 or better for inside of furniture or cabinets. Softwood: N-B or A-B, and no less than B-B outside.
1/2" Birch at HD says at least this much on the label: G2S (B-2) VCADHESIVE Type 1: (or "technical type"): exterior water proof Type 2: moisture resistant, some delam if wetted, most common interior Type 3: come apart if wetted; interior, keep reasonable dry
GRADE Hardwood
Face (by letter) AA A B C (considered utility grade) D (considered utility grade) E (considered utility grade)
Back (by number) 1 (best) 2 3 4
Imported Hardwood (gen diff) Face BBPF (best) BB CC OVL
Back A (best) B
Softwood (both face and back by same letter) N (best-not common, special order) A B C-plugged C D
CUT ROT (rotary) FLAT flitch cut, or stay-log cut - may be slip matched or book matched
GROUP (strength or specific gravity of species in core) - unless specific application of strength or stiffness, need not worry. Hardwood A (strongest) B C
Softwood 1 (strongest) 2 3 4 5
Generally, woodworkers use B-2 or better on visible or outside, and C-2 or C-3 or better for inside of furniture or cabinets. Softwood: N-B or A-B, and no less than B-B outside.
1/2" Birch at HD says at least this much on the label: G2S (B-2) VC
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